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MUZTAGH TOWER

The Mustagh Tower was made famous by a spectacular but somewhat misleading photograph taken by Vittorio during the 1909 Italian expedition to K2. Taken from the upper Baltoro, due southeast of the mountain, the twin summits were perfectly aligned and the mountain was seen as a slender tooth, and looked impregnable. In 1941, the photograph was featured in a popular book on mountaineering with the caption “The Last Citadel”.

Nearly fifty years after Sella’s photo was taken, in 1956, his photograph inspired two expeditions to race for the first ascent. Both teams found their routes less steep than Sella’s view had suggested. The British expedition, consisting of John Hartog, Joe Brown, Tom Patey and Ian McNaught-Davis, came from the Chagaran Glacier on the west side of the peak and reached the summit via the Northwest Ridge first on July 6, five days before the French team (fr; Guido Magnone, fr; Robert Paragot, André Contamine, Paul Keller) climbed the mountain from the east. The doctor François Florence waited for the two parties at the camp IV during 42 hours without a radio, when they went, reached the summit and came back to this camp.

ITINERARY

DAYS                                PROGRAMS

Day 01: ARRIVAL DAY IN ISLAMABAD, PAKISTAN

Day 02: ISLAMABAD TO SKARDU FLIGHT, 45 minutes, (2,230m)

Day 03: SIGHTSEEING & PREPARATION DAY, SKARDU

Day 04: DRIVE TO ASKOLI (3000m) 7 HOURS DRIVE

Day 05: TREK TO KORFONG (3,100m) 4 HOURS WALK

Day 06: TREK TO BARDUMAL (3,350m) 6 HOURS WALK

Day 07: TREK TO PAIJU (3,380m) 6-HOURS WALK

Day 08: TREK TO KHOBURTSE (3,760m) 7 HOURS WALK:

Day 09: TREK TO URDUKAS (4,130m) 4 HOURS WALK:

Day 10: ACCLIMATISING DAY AT URDUKAS (4,130m):

 

Day 11: TREK TO GORO II (4,250m) 7 HOURS WALK:

Day 12: MUZTAGH TOWER BC (4,600m), 5 HOURS WALK:

Day 13-45 : CLIMBING & ACCLIMATISING PERIOD:

Day 46: TREK BACK TO KHOBURTSE (3,560m) 7 HOURS WALK:

Day 47: TREK BACK TO PAIJU (3,380m) 6 HOURS WALK:

Day 48: TREK BACK TO JHOLA (3,170m) 7 HOURS WALK:

Day 49: TREK BACK TO ASKOLI (3050m) 4 HOURS WALK:

Day 50: DRIVE BACK TO SKARDU Via SHIGAR VALLEY, 7 HOURS DRIVE:

Day 51: FLY BACK TO ISLAMABAD:

Day 52: CONTINGENCY DAY IN CASE OF DELAYS-ISLAMABAD:

Day 53: DEPARTURE DAY-FLY BACK HOME

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

Name of Peak     

Muztagh Tower                             

Elevation  

7273-m (23871ft)

Ranked 

88 Of the world               

Ideal Duration

45 days

 Best Period         

15 June – 25 August

Base Camp height     

48000

Latitude          

35°– 45 N                                     

Location

Karakoram-Baltoro/Baltistan