Saraghrar 7349m is the 4th highest independent massif in the Hindu Kush mountain range after Terich Mir 7708m, Noshaq 7492m and Istor o Nal 7403m. The entire Saraghrar massif is a huge, irregular stretched plateau at elevation around 7000m (22966ft), lying above vertical granite and ice faces, which protect it all around. Its distinct summits are poorly identified, and information gathered from various expeditions that have visited the area is often misleading. The main summits are:
Saraghrar Main 7349m, Saraghrar Central 7330m, Saraghrar NW summit 7300m, Saraghrar SW summit 7148m, Saraghrar South summit 7307m and Saraghrar SE summit 7208m.
In 1958 a British Expedition led by Ted Norrish made a first try on the Main Summit 7349m. This expedition was stopped by the death of a member, P.S Nelson. The year after, on August 24th 1959, the North and the Main Summit were climbed for the 1st time by an Italian expedition led by Fosco Maraini, including Franco Alletto, Giancarlo Castelli, Paolo Consiglio and Professor Carlo Alberto Pinelli. Their route ascended via the Niroghi Glacier on the North East of the massif.
On August 24th 1967, Satoh Yukitoshi and Hara Hirosada, member of a Japanese expedition led by Kenichiro (Mountaineering Club of Hitotsubashi University) reached the South Summit for the first time by the Rosh-Gol Glacier.
In 1971, Nagano, member of a Japanese expedition (Shizuoka Climbing Club) led by Akiyama Reiski, summitted the South West peak for the first time on July 29th. Three Catalan expedition expeditions in 1975, 1977 and 1982 tried the NW summit via a rocky route. On August 9th, 1982, Juan Lopez (expedition leader), Enrique Lucas Liop Nil Bohigas Martorell reached the NW II summit (7200m)
In 2005, 5 members of a Swiss Expedition led by Jean Michel Zweiacker reached the South East summit 7208m for the first time (Mazal Chevallier, Sebastian Grosjean and Yves-Alain Peter on July 24th: Marc Belanger and Jean Michel Zweiacker on July 29th) via South face. This route is the easiest one to any > 7000m peak in the region. It is known to be the safest route and also easy to access i.e. only 2 days trek to the Base Camp.
Unclimbed Peaks of Saraghrar Massif-Hindukush
Saraghrar Central ……………….. 7330m
Saraghrar North West I………. 7300m
Saraghrar South III ……………..7280m
Saraghrar North West II ………7250m
Saraghrar South East II ………7185m
Saraghrar South II ………………7109m