Batura I Expedition – the Untouched Majesty of Upper Hunza
Batura I (7,795 meters / 25,574 feet) is the highest peak of the Batura Muztagh, the westernmost subrange of the Karakoram Mountains, located in the stunning Upper Hunza Valley (Gojal), Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. Towering above the legendary Batura Glacier, this majestic giant is one of the highest unclimbed peaks for decades, making it a dream for experienced mountaineers seeking new challenges in the remote and wild Karakoram.
📍 Location & Significance
Situated near the Khunjerab Pass and Pakistan-China border, Batura I commands a remote and rarely visited landscape. The region is known for its pristine glaciers, towering ridgelines, and authentic Wakhi culture. The peak rises directly above the Batura Glacier, one of the longest glaciers outside the polar regions, making this expedition a rare blend of technical mountaineering and glacial trekking.
Its location in Upper Hunza makes it a gem for climbers who wish to experience the untamed side of Pakistan’s Karakoram away from the commercial peaks like K2 or Broad Peak.
🌟 Expedition Highlights
Climb the highest peak in the Batura Muztagh subrange (7,795m)
Spectacular views of Passu Cones, Ultar Sar, Shispare, and Kunjut Sar
Explore the Batura Glacier, one of the largest and least-visited glaciers in the world
Experience Wakhi hospitality and culture in Passu and Khyber villages
A rarely attempted expedition – a true challenge for elite climbers
🧗♂️ Who Should Join This Expedition?
This expedition is designed for professional mountaineers and high-altitude alpinists with:
Previous experience climbing peaks above 6,500m
Technical ice, snow, and ridge climbing experience
Excellent physical and mental stamina
Familiarity with expedition gear and glacier travel
✅ Why Choose Chogholingsa Trek and Tours?
Decades of experience in organizing remote Karakoram expeditions
Trusted by elite climbers for our reliable logistics and safety protocols
Fully guided and equipped base camp setupDeep local knowledge and cultural connection in Hunza and Upper Gojal
Environmental responsibility and sustainable tourism practices
🏕️ Expedition Services
Climbing permits & documentation
Islamabad to Hunza transportation
Base camp equipment and logistics
High-altitude porters and guides
Emergency evacuation coordination
Meals, tents, radios, and kitchen staff
📅 Best Time for Batura I Expedition
June to early August is the ideal window for attempting Batura I, offering stable weather, lower avalanche risk, and more manageable snow conditions.
Day 01 Islamabad/Briefing Day 02 Islamabad-Chilas Day 03 Chilas-Passu Via Atta abad Lake. Day 04-06 Trek to Base Camp Day 07-40 Climbing Days Day 41-41 Trek to Passu-Karimabad Day 42 Karimabad-Besham Day 43 Besham-Islamabad Day 44 Free day Day 45 Departure for home |
start planning your mountain expedition! |
Price P/P for the year 2025-26 ( all the prices are negociable ) | |
Solo | $8000:- or €8000:- P/P |
02 to 03 Pax | $7000:- or €7000:- P/P |
04 to 06 Pax | $6550:- or €6550 P/P |
07 to 10 Pax | $6050:- or €6050 P/P |
More than 10 Pax | $5850:- or €5850 P/P |
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about Batura 1 Expedition and Batura Glacier in Passu Village, Gilgit-Baltistan
Q1: What is Batura 1?
A1: Batura 1 is a prominent peak in the Batura Muztagh Range of the Karakoram, with an elevation of approximately 7,795 meters (25,574 feet). It is known for its challenging climb and stunning high-altitude scenery.
Q2: Where is Batura Glacier located?
A2: Batura Glacier is one of the longest glaciers in the world, located in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. It extends from the Batura Peaks toward Passu Village, near the Hunza Valley.
Q3: Where is Passu Village?
A3: Passu Village is a scenic village in Gilgit-Baltistan, situated along the Karakoram Highway near the famous Passu Cones and close to Batura Glacier. It serves as a starting point for many expeditions and treks in the region.
Q4: How difficult is the Batura 1 expedition?
A4: Climbing Batura 1 is a technically challenging high-altitude expedition requiring advanced mountaineering skills, experience in ice and rock climbing, and acclimatization to extreme altitudes.
Q5: When is the best time for the expedition?
A5: The optimal climbing season is during the summer months, from late June to early September, when weather conditions are most favorable.
Q6: What is the typical route for Batura 1?
A6: The expedition generally involves trekking from Passu Village to base camp near the glacier, followed by establishing higher camps along the technical route to the summit. The route involves steep ice, crevasses, and rocky sections.
Q7: Do I need prior mountaineering experience?
A7: Yes, ascending Batura 1 requires significant high-altitude mountaineering experience, including technical ice climbing and crevasse navigation.
Q8: What permits are needed?
A8: Permits are issued by the Pakistan Alpine Club and relevant authorities. It is recommended to organize through experienced expedition operators to handle permit procurement and logistics.
Q9: What gear should I bring?
A9: Essential gear includes technical climbing equipment (ice axes, crampons, harnesses), high-altitude clothing, camping gear, safety equipment, and provisions. Professional guidance is highly recommended.
Q10: What are the risks involved?
A10: Risks include altitude sickness, avalanches, crevasse falls, extreme weather conditions, and technical climbing hazards. Proper preparation, acclimatization, and experienced guides are vital for safety.
Q11: How can I join a Batura 1 expedition?
A11: Interested climbers should contact reputable mountaineering organizations specializing in Gilgit-Baltistan expeditions. They provide logistical support, training, permits, and experienced guides to ensure a successful climb.
Climbing Batura 1 and exploring Batura Glacier offers an incredible adventure in one of the world’s most spectacular mountain regions. Adequate preparation, experience, and professional support are essential for success and safety.
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8000+ meters
World Rank | Rank (Pakistan) | Name | Height (m) | Location |
2 | 1 | K2 Expedition | 8611 | Karakoram |
9 | 2 | Nanga Parbat | 8126 | Himalaya |
11 | 3 | Gasherbrum I (K5) | 8080 | Karakoram |
12 | 4 | Broad Peak | 8051 | Karakoram |
13 | 5 | Gasherbrum II (K4) | 8035 | Karakoram |
7000 to 8000 meters
6000 to 7000 meters[edit]
5000 to 6000 meters[edit]
Pakistan islamabad rawalpindi lahore karachi punjab sindh peshawar gilgit hunza skardu shigar khaplu hushe askole nanga parbat k2 broad peak gashabrum I gashabrum II
