susbon brakk
Susbon Brakk

A moderate five-day trek into the rarely visited Sosbun Valley offers wildlife-watching opportunities and, for climbers, ascents of unnamed walls and towers. Ride in a jeep from Skardu up the Braldu Valley to Chakpo (Chokpoing on the Swiss map) and camp. Trek up the Hoh Lungma to camp at Nangmah (Nangmoni Tapsa on the Swiss map). Cross the Sosbun Glacier to Jusma camp at the base of the spur between the Tsilbu and Sosbun glaciers. Trek up the Sosbun Glacier to Sosbun Base Camp at the base of the spur between the South and North Sosbun glaciers beneath Sosbun Brak (6413m). Return in two days to Chakpo.


Publication Year: 1982.

Sosbun Brakk. Sosbun Brakk was unclimbed although it had been attempted by Germans in 1976. We climbed it by the southwest ridge to the headwall, below which we traversed right to gain the upper slopes. Our expedition consisted of Hisao Hashimoto, Mikio Tabata, Norichika Matsumoto and me as leader. We established Base Camp at 14,700 feet south of the peak on June 14. Camps I, II, III, IV and V were pitched at 16,400 feet (at the foot of the ridge), 17,450, 18,300, 18,625 and 19,900 feet on June 17, 21, 24, 26 and 28 respectively. The weather was bad on July 1 and 2. On July 3 Hashimoto and Matsumoto set out for the top, bivouacked at 20,375 feet and reached the summit (6413 meters, 21,040 feet) at 11:23 on July 4. They descended a more direct line down the south face.