🏔️ Ultar I & Ultar II Peak Expedition – Dare the Steep Giants of Hunza
“Climb Where Legends Sleep – Conquer the Guardians of Hunza Valley”
Ultar I (7,388m) and Ultar II (7,273m) rise dramatically above the picturesque Hunza Valley, near the towns of Karimabad and Gulmit. These two towering summits form part of the Batura Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram, and are renowned for their sheer technical difficulty, avalanche-prone slopes, and some of the greatest vertical relief in the world.
Once considered unclimbed until the 1990s, these peaks have earned their place as two of the most formidable and remote high-altitude challenges in Pakistan, ideal for elite climbers seeking new lines, untouched ridges, and unmatched adventure.
Chogholingsa Trek & Tours offers expert-guided, fully supported expeditions to Ultar I and Ultar II, combined with the rich cultural experience of Hunza’s legendary hospitality.
🧭 Expedition Summary
Feature | Ultar I | Ultar II |
---|---|---|
Altitude | 7,388 m (24,239 ft) | 7,273 m (23,862 ft) |
Location | Hunza Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan | Hunza Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan |
Range | Batura Muztagh, Karakoram | Batura Muztagh, Karakoram |
First Ascent | 1996 by Japanese team | 1997 by Japanese team |
Difficulty | Extremely Technical | Extremely Technical |
Best Climbing Season | July – September | July – September |
🌄 Why Climb Ultar Peaks?
⛰️ One of the Steepest Mountains in the World – An elevation gain of over 5,000m from the valley floor.
⚔️ Extreme Technical Challenge – Ice walls, rock faces, seracs, and ridgelines – a true alpinist’s dream.
🧭 Rarely Attempted – Very few successful summits; these are peaks for pioneers.
🕌 Cultural Immersion – Explore the magical Hunza Valley, rich in folklore, history, and warm hospitality.
🌌 Stunning Views – Overlook the entire Hunza River valley, Rakaposhi, Ladyfinger Peak, Passu Cones, and beyond.
📜 Historical Significance
Ultar I and II remained unclimbed until the mid-1990s, with numerous failed attempts by international teams due to avalanche danger and complex terrain. Their successful ascent marked a turning point in technical Himalayan climbing.
Today, they remain among the least-climbed 7000m peaks, drawing experienced alpinists eager to take on the extreme.
🗺️ Sample Itinerary (45–55 Days)
📍 Days 1–5: Arrival & Transfer
Arrive in Islamabad
Briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan
Fly or drive to Gilgit / Hunza
📍 Days 6–12: Trekking to Base Camp
Acclimatize in Karimabad, Altit, Passu
Trek through Ultar Meadow & Ultar Glacier
Establish Base Camp (~4,300m)
📍 Days 13–45: Climbing Period
Load ferry and establish Camp I, Camp II, Summit Camp
Attempt summit of Ultar I or Ultar II
Spare days for acclimatization, weather windows, and technical planning
📍 Days 46–52: Return
Descend to Hunza
Return to Islamabad
Debrief and celebration
🧗 Routes
We provide support for the Japanese Southwest Ridge Route (1996), or you may attempt new lines with advanced consultation. Due to the complexity and terrain, most routes include:
50–70° ice and mixed climbing
Glacier navigation and crevasse zones
Fixed rope sections and ridge exposure
Avalanche-prone slopes requiring expert judgment
🧰 Expedition Inclusions
✔️ Full-Service Package:
Climbing permits, liaison officer, and fees
Certified high-altitude climbing guides
Porters, cooks, tents, base camp logistics
Group climbing equipment (ropes, anchors, stoves)
Satellite communication & weather updates
Transport: Islamabad ↔ Hunza
Hotels and domestic flights
Optional Add-ons:
Personal sherpa or high-altitude assistant
Alpine-style logistics for experienced teams
Technical training prior to departure
Media & drone filming team (on request)
🔐 Safety Comes First
Ultar expeditions are inherently dangerous. That’s why we offer:
Detailed route risk assessment
Emergency evacuation planning
Medical-trained staff at base camp
Real-time weather tracking24/7 satellite communication
🌿 Responsible & Local
By choosing Chogholingsa, you support:
Local Hunzai porters and communities
Eco-friendly tourism and Leave No Trace practices
Promotion of lesser-known but magnificent peaks
💼 Who Should Join?
Ultar Expeditions are NOT for beginners.
This is ideal for:
Experienced climbers with 6000m+ and mixed alpine experience
Teams seeking new lines or uncommercial climbs
Athletes preparing for 8000m technical ascents
Don’t meet these yet? Join our preparatory climbs (Spantik, Drifikha, Laila, or Khosar Gang).
📅 2025 Expedition Schedules
Expedition | Start Date | Duration | Status |
---|---|---|---|
Ultar I | July 10, 2025 | 50 Days | Open |
Ultar II | August 5, 2025 | 47 Days | Open |
Private Group | Flexible | On Request | Available |
📞 Book Now
Climb one of the world’s most dramatic and elite peaks with expert support.
📧 info@chogholingsa.com
📞 +92-309-5198838
🌐 www.chogholingsa.com
Advance registration is strongly recommended
TREKKING PEAKS – UP TO (6500M)
Call: +92-344-5447525
WhatsApp: +92-3355-5223795
Eid Ghaah Colony Skardu Gilgit-Baltistan Pakistan
info@chogholingsa.com tongorpa33@yahoo.com
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