|

 

Ultar I & Ultar II Expedition

🏔️ Ultar I & Ultar II Peak Expedition – Dare the Steep Giants of Hunza

“Climb Where Legends Sleep – Conquer the Guardians of Hunza Valley”

Ultar I (7,388m) and Ultar II (7,273m) rise dramatically above the picturesque Hunza Valley, near the towns of Karimabad and Gulmit. These two towering summits form part of the Batura Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram, and are renowned for their sheer technical difficulty, avalanche-prone slopes, and some of the greatest vertical relief in the world.

Once considered unclimbed until the 1990s, these peaks have earned their place as two of the most formidable and remote high-altitude challenges in Pakistan, ideal for elite climbers seeking new lines, untouched ridges, and unmatched adventure.

Chogholingsa Trek & Tours offers expert-guided, fully supported expeditions to Ultar I and Ultar II, combined with the rich cultural experience of Hunza’s legendary hospitality.


🧭 Expedition Summary

FeatureUltar IUltar II
Altitude7,388 m (24,239 ft)7,273 m (23,862 ft)
LocationHunza Valley, Gilgit-BaltistanHunza Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan
RangeBatura Muztagh, KarakoramBatura Muztagh, Karakoram
First Ascent1996 by Japanese team1997 by Japanese team
DifficultyExtremely TechnicalExtremely Technical
Best Climbing SeasonJuly – SeptemberJuly – September

🌄 Why Climb Ultar Peaks?

⛰️ One of the Steepest Mountains in the World – An elevation gain of over 5,000m from the valley floor.

⚔️ Extreme Technical Challenge – Ice walls, rock faces, seracs, and ridgelines – a true alpinist’s dream.

🧭 Rarely Attempted – Very few successful summits; these are peaks for pioneers.

🕌 Cultural Immersion – Explore the magical Hunza Valley, rich in folklore, history, and warm hospitality.

🌌 Stunning Views – Overlook the entire Hunza River valley, Rakaposhi, Ladyfinger Peak, Passu Cones, and beyond.


📜 Historical Significance

Ultar I and II remained unclimbed until the mid-1990s, with numerous failed attempts by international teams due to avalanche danger and complex terrain. Their successful ascent marked a turning point in technical Himalayan climbing.

Today, they remain among the least-climbed 7000m peaks, drawing experienced alpinists eager to take on the extreme.


🗺️ Sample Itinerary (45–55 Days)

📍 Days 1–5: Arrival & Transfer

Arrive in Islamabad

Briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan

Fly or drive to Gilgit / Hunza

📍 Days 6–12: Trekking to Base Camp

Acclimatize in Karimabad, Altit, Passu

Trek through Ultar Meadow & Ultar Glacier

Establish Base Camp (~4,300m)

📍 Days 13–45: Climbing Period

Load ferry and establish Camp I, Camp II, Summit Camp

Attempt summit of Ultar I or Ultar II

Spare days for acclimatization, weather windows, and technical planning

📍 Days 46–52: Return

Descend to Hunza

Return to Islamabad

Debrief and celebration


🧗 Routes

We provide support for the Japanese Southwest Ridge Route (1996), or you may attempt new lines with advanced consultation. Due to the complexity and terrain, most routes include:

50–70° ice and mixed climbing

Glacier navigation and crevasse zones

Fixed rope sections and ridge exposure

Avalanche-prone slopes requiring expert judgment


🧰 Expedition Inclusions

✔️ Full-Service Package:

Climbing permits, liaison officer, and fees

Certified high-altitude climbing guides

Porters, cooks, tents, base camp logistics

Group climbing equipment (ropes, anchors, stoves)

Satellite communication & weather updates

Transport: Islamabad ↔ Hunza

Hotels and domestic flights

Optional Add-ons:

Personal sherpa or high-altitude assistant

Alpine-style logistics for experienced teams

Technical training prior to departure

Media & drone filming team (on request)


🔐 Safety Comes First

Ultar expeditions are inherently dangerous. That’s why we offer:

Detailed route risk assessment

Emergency evacuation planning

Medical-trained staff at base camp

Real-time weather tracking24/7 satellite communication


🌿 Responsible & Local

By choosing Chogholingsa, you support:

Local Hunzai porters and communities

Eco-friendly tourism and Leave No Trace practices

Promotion of lesser-known but magnificent peaks


💼 Who Should Join?

Ultar Expeditions are NOT for beginners.
This is ideal for:

Experienced climbers with 6000m+ and mixed alpine experience

Teams seeking new lines or uncommercial climbs

Athletes preparing for 8000m technical ascents

Don’t meet these yet? Join our preparatory climbs (Spantik, Drifikha, Laila, or Khosar Gang).


📅 2025 Expedition Schedules

ExpeditionStart DateDurationStatus
Ultar IJuly 10, 202550 DaysOpen
Ultar IIAugust 5, 202547 DaysOpen
Private GroupFlexibleOn RequestAvailable

📞 Book Now

Climb one of the world’s most dramatic and elite peaks with expert support.

📧 info@chogholingsa.com
📞 +92-309-5198838
🌐 www.chogholingsa.com

Advance registration is strongly recommended 


link

Ultar Peak Expedition Ultar I and Ultar II climb Climb Ultar Hunza Valley

Broad Peak

 
Ultar Peak Expedition Ultar I and Ultar II climb Climb Ultar Hunza Valley

Gashabrum I

 
Ultar Peak Expedition Ultar I and Ultar II climb Climb Ultar Hunza Valley

Nanga Parbat

 
Ultar Peak Expedition Ultar I and Ultar II climb Climb Ultar Hunza Valley

k2 from Concordia

 
 
Ultar Peak Expedition Ultar I and Ultar II climb Climb Ultar Hunza Valley

Muztagh Tower

 
Ultar Peak Expedition Ultar I and Ultar II climb Climb Ultar Hunza Valley

Batura I

 
Ultar Peak Expedition Ultar I and Ultar II climb Climb Ultar Hunza Valley

Golden Peak

 
Batura Muztagh Expeditions Karakoram technical climbs 7000m climbing Pakistan Hunza Valley mountaineering

Laila Peak Hushe

 
Batura Muztagh Expeditions Karakoram technical climbs 7000m climbing Pakistan Hunza Valley mountaineering

Sunset at Mashabrum

 
Batura Muztagh Expeditions Karakoram technical climbs 7000m climbing Pakistan Hunza Valley mountaineering

Tango Group

 
Batura Muztagh Expeditions Karakoram technical climbs 7000m climbing Pakistan Hunza Valley mountaineering

Gasherbrum IV

 
Batura Muztagh Expeditions Karakoram technical climbs 7000m climbing Pakistan Hunza Valley mountaineering

Chgholisa Peak

 
 

TREKKING PEAKS – UP TO (6500M)

Batura Muztagh Expeditions Karakoram technical climbs 7000m climbing Pakistan Hunza Valley mountaineering

Shaltar Peak


Batura Muztagh Expeditions Karakoram technical climbs 7000m climbing Pakistan Hunza Valley mountaineering

Pastore Peak


Ultar Massif ascent Chogholingsa Trek Tours Hunza Best climbing expeditions in Pakistan

Khosar Gang


Ultar Massif ascent Chogholingsa Trek Tours Hunza Best climbing expeditions in Pakistan

Trango Tower

 
Ultar Massif ascent Chogholingsa Trek Tours Hunza Best climbing expeditions in Pakistan

Climber At Trango

 
Ultar Massif ascent Chogholingsa Trek Tours Hunza Best climbing expeditions in Pakistan

Laila Peak