Ultar I & Ultar II Expedition

Ultar I & Ultar II Peak Expedition – Dare the Steep Giants of Hunza

“Climb Where Legends Sleep – Conquer the Guardians of Hunza Valley”

Ultar I (7,388m) and Ultar II (7,273m) rise dramatically above the picturesque Hunza Valley, near the towns of Karimabad and Gulmit. These two towering summits form part of the Batura Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram, and are renowned for their sheer technical difficulty, avalanche-prone slopes, and some of the greatest vertical relief in the world.

Once considered unclimbed until the 1990s, these peaks have earned their place as two of the most formidable and remote high-altitude challenges in Pakistan, ideal for elite climbers seeking new lines, untouched ridges, and unmatched adventure.

Chogholingsa Trek & Tours offers expert-guided, fully supported expeditions to Ultar I and Ultar II, combined with the rich cultural experience of Hunza’s legendary hospitality.

Expedition Summary

Feature	Ultar I	Ultar II
Altitude	7,388 m (24,239 ft)	7,273 m (23,862 ft)
Location	Hunza Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan	Hunza Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan
Range	Batura Muztagh, Karakoram	Batura Muztagh, Karakoram
First Ascent	1996 by Japanese team	1997 by Japanese team
Difficulty	Extremely Technical	Extremely Technical
Best Climbing Season	July – September	July – September

Why Climb Ultar Peaks?

One of the Steepest Mountains in the World – An elevation gain of over 5,000m from the valley floor.

Extreme Technical Challenge – Ice walls, rock faces, seracs, and ridgelines – a true alpinist’s dream.

Rarely Attempted – Very few successful summits; these are peaks for pioneers.

Cultural Immersion – Explore the magical Hunza Valley, rich in folklore, history, and warm hospitality.

Stunning Views – Overlook the entire Hunza River valley, Rakaposhi, Ladyfinger Peak, Passu Cones, and beyond.

Historical Significance

Ultar I and II remained unclimbed until the mid-1990s, with numerous failed attempts by international teams due to avalanche danger and complex terrain. Their successful ascent marked a turning point in technical Himalayan climbing.

Today, they remain among the least-climbed 7000m peaks, drawing experienced alpinists eager to take on the extreme.

Sample Itinerary (45–55 Days)

Days 1–5: Arrival & Transfer

Arrive in Islamabad

Briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan

Fly or drive to Gilgit / Hunza

Days 6–12: Trekking to Base Camp

Acclimatize in Karimabad, Altit, Passu

Trek through Ultar Meadow & Ultar Glacier

Establish Base Camp (~4,300m)

Days 13–45: Climbing Period

Load ferry and establish Camp I, Camp II, Summit Camp

Attempt summit of Ultar I or Ultar II

Spare days for acclimatization, weather windows, and technical planning

Days 46–52: Return

Descend to Hunza

Return to Islamabad

Debrief and celebration

Routes

We provide support for the Japanese Southwest Ridge Route (1996), or you may attempt new lines with advanced consultation. Due to the complexity and terrain, most routes include:

50–70° ice and mixed climbing

Glacier navigation and crevasse zones

Fixed rope sections and ridge exposure

Avalanche-prone slopes requiring expert judgment