RUPAL PEAK EXPEDITION

Rupal Peak is located on the southern side of the Rupal Valley which is more famously known for the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat, the highest face in the world extending over four vertical kilometres from the floor. Rupal Peak is not too difficult to climb and is ideal for someone looking for an introduction to climbing in the Asian ranges. It mainly involves climbing on snow slopes with a few short sections of easy ice. It could be compared to the Group B Trekking Peaks in Nepal for difficulty yet receives a fraction of the climbers and requires no red tape to climb, unlike Nepal.Rupal Peak is located in the far  Western aspect of the Himalaya in Pakistan’s Northern Areas. It lies just 9km from the Pakistani province of Azad Jammu & Kashmir to the South-West and the 42km from the Indian Province of Jammu & Kashmir. Despite its relatively sensitive position the mountain is easy to visit from Gilgit, the largest settlement in the Northern Area. Rupal Peak can first be viewed a short distance west of the village of Tarashing, which is the gateway to the Rupal Valley. From this perspective the mountain is dwarfed by Nanga Parbat but beyond the Bazhin Glacier, which flows from Nanga Parbat’s Southern Face, Rupal Peak’s impressive Northern face come in to view.Rupal peak was first climbed in 1964 and has received a steady stream of climbers ever since. The peak is either 5584m or 5642m depending on which map you refer to. A number of routes are possible with the Western route being the most popular due it being the easiest with minimal objective dangers. The climb involves short sections of WI3 but is generally easy. Undoubtedly the most famous climber to have ascended Rupal Peak is Doug Scott. He climbed the peak while in the Rupal Valley in 1986 along with Alistair Reid, Michael Scott, David Marshall and Nazir Sabir. They approached to the summit from the West side making three bivouacs on route. More direct summits can be made via the north face or NW couloir. The former may be subject to avalanche risk while the latter is subject to rock fall (see 1997 German expedition report).