Ultar I & Ultar II Expedition
Dare the Steep Giants of Hunza
“Climb Where Legends Sleep – Conquer the Guardians of Hunza Valley”
Ultar I (7,388m) and Ultar II (7,273m) rise dramatically above the picturesque Hunza Valley, near the towns of Karimabad and Gulmit. These two towering summits form part of the Batura Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram, and are renowned for their sheer technical difficulty, avalanche-prone slopes, and some of the greatest vertical relief in the world.
Once considered unclimbed until the 1990s, these peaks have earned their place as two of the most formidable and remote high-altitude challenges in Pakistan, ideal for elite climbers seeking new lines, untouched ridges, and unmatched adventure.
Chogholingsa Trek & Tours offers expert-guided, fully supported expeditions to Ultar I and Ultar II, combined with the rich cultural experience of Hunza’s legendary hospitality.
Expedition SummaryFeature | Ultar I | Ultar II |
|---|---|---|
Altitude | 7,388 m (24,239 ft) | 7,273 m (23,862 ft) |
Location | Hunza Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan | Hunza Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan |
Range | Batura Muztagh, Karakoram | Batura Muztagh, Karakoram |
First Ascent | 1996 by Japanese team | 1997 by Japanese team |
Difficulty | Extremely Technical | Extremely Technical |
Best Climbing Season | July – September | July – September |
Why Climb Ultar Peaks?
One of the Steepest Mountains in the World – An elevation gain of over 5,000m from the valley floor.
Extreme Technical Challenge – Ice walls, rock faces, seracs, and ridgelines – a true alpinist’s dream.
Rarely Attempted – Very few successful summits; these are peaks for pioneers.
Cultural Immersion – Explore the magical Hunza Valley, rich in folklore, history, and warm hospitality.
Stunning Views – Overlook the entire Hunza River valley, Rakaposhi, Ladyfinger Peak, Passu Cones, and beyond.
Historical Significance
Ultar I and II remained unclimbed until the mid-1990s, with numerous failed attempts by international teams due to avalanche danger and complex terrain. Their successful ascent marked a turning point in technical Himalayan climbing.
Today, they remain among the least-climbed 7000m peaks, drawing experienced alpinists eager to take on the extreme.
Routes
We provide support for the Japanese Southwest Ridge Route (1996), or you may attempt new lines with advanced consultation. Due to the complexity and terrain, most routes include:
50–70° ice and mixed climbing
Glacier navigation and crevasse zones
Fixed rope sections and ridge exposure
Avalanche-prone slopes requiring expert judgment
Expedition Inclusions
✔️ Full-Service Package:
Climbing permits, liaison officer, and fees
Certified high-altitude climbing guides
Porters, cooks, tents, base camp logistics
Group climbing equipment (ropes, anchors, stoves)
Satellite communication & weather updates
Transport: Islamabad ↔ Hunza
Hotels and domestic flights
Optional Add-ons:
Personal sherpa or high-altitude assistant
Alpine-style logistics for experienced teams
Technical training prior to departure
Media & drone filming team (on request)
Safety Comes First
Ultar expeditions are inherently dangerous. That’s why we offer:
Detailed route risk assessment
Emergency evacuation planning
Medical-trained staff at base camp
Real-time weather tracking24/7 satellite communication
Responsible & Local
By choosing Chogholingsa, you support:
Local Hunzai porters and communities
Eco-friendly tourism and Leave No Trace practices
Promotion of lesser-known but magnificent peaks
Who Should Join?
Ultar Expeditions are NOT for beginners.
This is ideal for:
Experienced climbers with 6000m+ and mixed alpine experience
Teams seeking new lines or uncommercial climbs
Athletes preparing for 8000m technical ascents
Don’t meet these yet? Join our preparatory climbs (Spantik, Drifikha, Laila, or Khosar Gang).
2025 Expedition Schedules
| Expedition | Start Date | Duration | Status |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ultar I | July 10, 2025 | 50 Days | Open |
| Ultar II | August 5, 2025 | 47 Days | Open |
| Private Group | Flexible | On Request | Available |
📞 Book Now
Climb one of the world’s most dramatic and elite peaks with expert support.
📧 info@chogholingsa.com
📞 +92-309-5198838
🌐 www.chogholingsa.com
Advance registration is strongly recommended
Sample Itinerary Days 1–5: Arrival & Transfer
Arrive in Islamabad
Briefing at Alpine Club of Pakistan
Fly or drive to Gilgit / Hunza
Days 6–12: Trekking to Base Camp
Acclimatize in Karimabad, Altit, Passu
Trek through Ultar Meadow & Ultar Glacier
Establish Base Camp (~4,300m)
Days 13–45: Climbing Period
Load ferry and establish Camp I, Camp II, Summit Camp
Attempt summit of Ultar I or Ultar II
Spare days for acclimatization, weather windows, and technical planning
Days 46–52: Return
Descend to Hunza
Return to Islamabad
Debrief and celebration
Price P/P for the year 2025-26 ( all the prices are negociable)
Solo. $8000:- or €8000:- P/P
2 to 03 Pax $7000:- or €7000:- P/P
04 to 06 Pax. $6550:- or €6550 P/P
07 to 10 Pax. $6050:- or €6050 P/P
More than 10 Pax $5850:- or €5850 P/P
Pricing & Group Details
Standard Package Inclusions:
All permits and official documentation
Transportation all domestic transport
Experienced trekking guides and support staff
Porters for equipment and supplies
Camping gear (tents, sleeping bags, mats)
Meals during trekking days (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
First aid and emergency oxygen supplies
Basic medical assistance
Safety equipment (ropes, harnesses, etc.)
Environmental conservation measures
Pricing (Per Person):
Note: Prices vary depending on group size, season, and specific requirements.
For groups larger than 8 participants, discounts may be available.
Additional Costs (Optional):
Personal gear rental (if needed)
Extra nights in Transport out of the decided programe
Personal equipment and supplies
Travel insurance and emergency evacuation
Booking & Payment Details:
A deposit of 30% is required to confirm your booking.
Full payment is due 30 days before the expedition start date.
Flexible payment options available.
Best Time to Book:
June to September (Peak trekking season)
Early booking recommended due to limited permits and high demand.
Customizable Options:
Tailored itineraries based on your preferences and schedule
Additional acclimatization days or side treks
Special arrangements for photography or mountaineering
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) - Ultar I & Ultar II Expedition
Q1: What are Ultar I and Ultar II?
A: Ultar I (7,726 meters) and Ultar II (7,688 meters) are prominent peaks in the Karakoram Range near hunza, Pakistan. Ultar I is a technically challenging peak known for its steep faces and ridges, while Ultar II is a slightly lower but equally demanding summit. Both are popular among experienced mountaineers seeking high-altitude challenges.
Q2: What is the best time to climb Ultar I & II?
A: The optimal climbing seasons are late spring (May-June) and early autumn (September-October), when weather conditions are relatively stable, and snow and ice conditions are favorable for technical climbing.
Q3: What level of experience is required?
A: These peaks are suited for advanced climbers with high-altitude mountaineering experience, technical ice and rock climbing skills, and good physical fitness. Prior expeditions on similar difficulty levels are highly recommended.
Q4: How physically demanding is the expedition?
A: The climb involves long, strenuous days of technical climbing, high-altitude acclimatization, and exposure to extreme weather conditions. Proper training, preparation, and acclimatization are crucial for success and safety.
Q5: What permits are needed?
A: Climbing Ultar I & II requires special mountaineering permits from the Pakistan Alpine Club and relevant authorities. All permit arrangements are handled by our experienced team.
Q6: What gear and equipment are required?
A: Essential gear includes technical climbing equipment (ice axes, crampons, harnesses, carabiners), high-altitude clothing, sleeping bags suitable for cold temperatures, personal safety gear, and acclimatization supplies. A detailed gear list is provided upon registration.
Q7: How long does the expedition typically last?
A: The entire expedition, including acclimatization, approach, climbing, and return, usually spans 4 to 6 weeks depending on weather conditions and progress.
Q8: What are the main challenges of climbing Ultar I & II?
A: Key challenges include technical ice and rock climbing, high-altitude exposure, unpredictable weather, risk of avalanches, and crevasse navigation. Our experienced guides prioritize safety and risk management throughout the expedition.
Q9: Do I need to arrange my own travel and accommodations?
A: Participants are responsible for their international travel arrangements to Pakistan. We assist with logistics in Skardu and provide support for local transportation, permits, and accommodations during the expedition.
Q10: How do I prepare for the expedition?
A: We recommend comprehensive physical training focusing on endurance, strength, and technical climbing skills. Additionally, mental preparation for high-altitude conditions and challenging terrain is essential.
Q11: How do I book or get more information?
A: For booking inquiries, detailed itineraries, and personalized advice, please contact us at +923095198838
or fill out our booking form
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8000+ meters
World Rank | Rank (Pakistan) | Name | Height (m) | Location |
2 | 1 | 8611 | ||
9 | 2 | 8126 | ||
11 | 3 | Gasherbrum I (K5) | 8080 | |
12 | 4 | 8051 | ||
13 | 5 | Gasherbrum II (K4) | 8035 |
7000 to 8000 meters
World Rank | Rank (Pakistan) | Name | Height (m) | Location | Sub-Range |
Gasherbrum III (K3a) | 7952 | ||||
17 | 6 | Gasherbrum IV (K3) | 7925 | ||
19 | 7 | 7885 | |||
21 | 8 | 7852 | |||
22 | 9 | Masherbrum (K1) | 7821 | ||
25 | 10 | 7795 | |||
26 | 11 | 7790 | |||
27 | 12 | 7788 | |||
7762 | |||||
31 | 7742 | ||||
7729 | |||||
33 | 13 | 7708 | |||
36 | 14 | 7665 | |||
38 | 15 | 7611 | |||
7597 | |||||
7594 | |||||
Unnamed | 7581 | ||||
39 | 16 | 7577 | |||
44 | 17 | 7,545 | |||
44 | 18 | Yukshin Gardan Sar | 7530 | ||
52 | 19 | Noshaq | 7492 | ||
53 | 20 | Pumari Chhish (W) | 7492 | Karakoram | Shimshal |
54 | 21 | Passu Sar | 7476 | Batura Muztagh | |
58 | 22 | Malubiting (W) | 7458 | ||
61 | 24 | K12 | 7428 | Saltoro Mountains | |
Muchu Chhish | 7453 | ||||
63 | 25 | 7422 | Baltoro Muztagh | ||
64 | 26 | 7343 | Shimshal | ||
66 | 27 | 7420 | Baltoro Muztagh | ||
67 | 28 | Haramosh | 7409 | ||
68 | 29 | Istor-o-nal | 7403 | ||
69 | 30 | Ghent Kangri | 7400 | ||
70 | 31 | 7388 | |||
74 | 33 | 7380 | |||
78 | 34 | 7349 | |||
81 | 35 | 7315 | |||
82 | 36 | 7280 | |||
88 | 37 | 7,283 | |||
7330 | |||||
7329 | |||||
7324 | |||||
Unnamed | 7300 | ||||
7295 | |||||
Unnamed | 7295 | ||||
7291 | |||||
87 | 38 | Baintha Brakk (The Ogre) | 7285 | ||
89 | 40 | Baltistan Peak (K6) | 7282 | ||
Unnamed | 7280 | ||||
91 | 41 | 7273 | Baltoro Muztagh | ||
93 | 42 | 7266 | |||
104 | 43 | Malungutti Sar (Mulungutti) | 7207 | ||
109 | 44 | Lupghar Sar (Central) | 7200 | ||
7163[2] | |||||
7160 | |||||
Praqpa Ri | 7156 | Baltoro Muztagh | |||
7151 | |||||
7147 | |||||
7145 | |||||
7143 | |||||
Unnamed | 7133 | ||||
7108 | |||||
7108 | |||||
7090 | |||||
7070 | |||||
7050 | |||||
7041 | |||||
7027 | |||||
7020 | |||||
7016 | |||||
7010 | |||||
7004 |
6000 to 7000 meters[edit]
Name | Height (m) | Location | |
6986 | |||
6977 | |||
6934 | |||
6882 | |||
6874 | |||
6871 | |||
6858 | |||
6858 | |||
6850 | |||
6830 | |||
6824 | |||
6785 | |||
6781 | |||
6771 | |||
6756 | |||
6729 | |||
6700 | |||
6685 | |||
6666 | |||
6660 | |||
6657 | |||
6610 | |||
6607 | |||
6606 | |||
6574 | |||
6550 | |||
6523 | |||
6518 | |||
6496 | |||
6459 | |||
6432 | |||
6417 | |||
6401 | |||
6363 | |||
6325 | Hushe and Shyok Valleys | ||
6320 | |||
6310 | |||
Shimshal Whitehorn (odver sar) | 6303 | ||
6294 | |||
6293 | |||
6288 | |||
6282 | |||
6280 | |||
6270 | |||
6256 | |||
6252 | |||
6249 | |||
6244 | |||
6225 | |||
6191 | |||
6176 | |||
6158 | |||
6134 | |||
6130 | |||
6110 | |||
6109 | |||
6106 | |||
6096 | |||
6090 | |||
6080 | |||
6050https: | |||
6050 | |||
6030 | |||
6026 | |||
6025 | |||
6000 | |||
6000 | |||
6000 | |||
5000 to 6000 meters[edit]
Name | Height (m) | Location | |
5971 | |||
5957 | |||
5940 | |||
5900 | |||
5887 | |||
5886 | |||
Quz Sar (Kuz Sar Peak) | 5854 | ||
5828 | |||
Qool Peak | 5800 | ||
5798 | |||
5791 | |||
5790 | |||
5780 | |||
5726 | |||
5707 | |||
5700 | |||
5688 | |||
5640 | |||
5639 | |||
