Journey into the Untamed Majesty of Batura Muztagh

Introduction

Nestled deep within the wild and rugged terrain of the Batura Muztagh Range in Gilgit-Baltistan, Beka Brakai Chhok (6,940 m) stands as one of the lesser-known yet most captivating peaks of the Karakoram. Hidden among towering summits like Ultar Sar, Shispare, and Batura I, this mountain is a paradise for climbers seeking solitude, challenge, and untouched alpine beauty.

The Beka Brakai Chhok Expedition offers an extraordinary experience for mountaineers who wish to explore beyond commercial peaks and immerse themselves in the pure wilderness of northern Pakistan. It combines technical climbing, breathtaking glacier travel, and views that sweep across the Batura Glacier, Passu Cones, and Shimshal Valley.

Location and Geography

Beka Brakai Chhok rises proudly within the Batura Muztagh subrange of the Karakoram Mountains, situated north of Passu Village in Upper Hunza (Gojal Valley). The region is surrounded by ice giants such as Batura I (7,795 m) and Ultar Sar (7,388 m), forming a mesmerizing skyline that few places on Earth can rival.

Access to the mountain is usually through Passu village, followed by a trek along the Batura Glacier, one of the longest glaciers outside the polar regions. The journey passes through traditional shepherd settlements and flower-filled meadows—offering a rare blend of natural serenity and raw Himalayan grandeur.

History of Exploration

The exploration of Beka Brakai Chhok began relatively late compared to other Karakoram peaks. The mountain was first noted by early European explorers in the mid-20th century during surveys of the Batura group. However, few recorded attempts have been made to summit it, giving the mountain an almost mythical reputation among modern alpinists.

Its first known ascent was achieved by a Japanese expedition team, who opened a technical route involving ice climbing, steep snow slopes, and mixed terrain. Due to its remote location and limited accessibility, Beka Brakai Chhok remains one of the least climbed peaks of the Karakoram—an ultimate prize for adventurers seeking untouched summits.

Expedition Overview

The expedition starts with a scenic drive from Islamabad to Hunza, followed by a short stay in Karimabad or Passu for acclimatization. Trekkers then journey across the Batura Glacier, setting up multiple camps en route to the base of the mountain.

Climbers must navigate crevasses, seracs, and steep ice walls, often requiring fixed ropes and careful technical maneuvering. The climb offers a real test of endurance and skill, making it suitable for experienced alpinists with previous 6,000 m or 7,000 m peak experience.

Highlights of the Expedition

→ 🏞️ Remote Wilderness: Experience the untouched beauty of Batura Glacier and the serenity of Hunza’s upper valleys.

→ 🧗 Challenging Technical Ascent: Ideal for those seeking to hone their alpine skills on mixed terrain.

→ 🌸 Cultural Encounters: Meet the warm-hearted Wakhi people of Passu and explore Hunza’s traditional life.

→ 📸 Unreal Views: Capture breathtaking panoramas of the entire Batura Wall, Passu Cones, and Shispare massif.

→ 🌌 Starry Nights: Witness crystal-clear night skies far away from city lights, under the vast Karakoram heavens.

Best Time to Climb

The most favorable season for the Beka Brakai Chhok expedition is from June to August, when the weather is relatively stable, temperatures are moderate, and glacier conditions are safer. Early July often offers the best balance between warmth and snow firmness.

Permit and Logistics

Climbing Beka Brakai Chhok requires a mountaineering permit issued by the Gilgit-Baltistan Council.
You’ll also need:

→ A registered liaison officer

→ Local guide and porters for glacier approach

→ Expedition insurance and high-altitude gear

Most expeditions are organized through specialized tour operators in Hunza or Islamabad who handle permits, logistics, and support staff.

Essential Equipment

→ Mountaineering boots and crampons

→ Ice axe, harness, carabiners, and ropes

→ High-altitude tent and sleeping bag

→ Down jacket and layering system

→ Helmet and glacier sunglasses

→ Cooking gear and food supplies

Conclusion

The Beka Brakai Chhok Expedition is a journey beyond the known paths — a climb that awakens the spirit of true adventure.
With its dramatic setting in the heart of Batura Muztagh, surrounded by some of the world’s most majestic peaks, it offers climbers an unforgettable encounter with the raw power of the Karakoram.

For those who seek solitude, challenge, and the joy of pure exploration, Beka Brakai Chhok is a hidden jewel waiting to be discovered.