Expedition to Sangemarmar Sar: A High-Altitude Journey

With the Sangemarmar Sar Expedition, set off on an exhilarating and breathtaking adventure to the heart of the Karakoram Mountains. With a height of 6,949 metres (about 22,799 ft) and located in the Batura Muztagh sub-range, Sangemarmar Sar is a spectacular peak that this expedition presents a rare opportunity to scale. Sangemarmar Sar, which is situated between the Muchuhar and Shispare Glaciers, is a recognisable landmark in this breathtaking area.

This sub-range of the Batura Muztagh, also known as the Batura Wall, exhibits the untainted and unadulterated grandeur of the Karakoram Mountains. Some of the most renowned peaks in the world, including the legendary K2, may be found in these mountains, which are spread out across both Pakistan and China. At specific locations, the Karakoram Range, which has a colossal 500 km length and 200 km width, joins the Hindukush and Himalaya Mountains, forming a breathtaking combination of natural beauties.

The history of the Sangemarmar Sar Expedition began in 1984 when a Japanese expedition headed by Takashi Matsuo and formerly affiliated with Osaka University became the first to successfully reach the summit. Since then, it has developed into a popular destination for thrill-seekers and mountaineers looking to push themselves to the utmost while admiring the unrivalled views from this lofty summit.

There are more benefits to travelling to Sangemarmar Sar besides conquering mountains. The trip serves as a springboard for your exploration of the Hunza Valley, an area renowned for its breathtaking vistas, quaint towns, and a variety of surrounding high peaks. This trip accommodates a variety of expertise levels and delivers a memorable adventure, whether you’re an experienced mountaineer or an adventurous trekker.

Everything you need for a successful and safe voyage is included in the comprehensive services provided by the Sangemarmar Sar Expedition. We will take care of everything for you, including booking hotel rooms, obtaining climbing permits, providing professional chefs and tour guides, assisting with visas, hiring devoted porters, and making sure you have the best camping supplies and daily food. With our extensive knowledge of the area and dedication to your safety and comfort, we strive to make your adventure an unforgettable experience.

Sangemarmar Sar or Sangemar Mar and Sang-e-Marmar, is a pyramidal peak in the Batura Muztagh, at the end of a spur ridge running southwest from Pasu Sar in Pakistan. It lies between the Muchuhar Glacier, on the west, and the Shispare (or Hasanabad) Glacier on the east.

Because it is much lower in elevation than many of the surrounding peaks, such as Batura Sar and Rakaposhi, Sangemarmar Sar is little-known, and there has been only one successful ascent of the peak, according to the Himalayan Index. However, because of its location on the southern flank of the main crest of the range, relatively near the Hunza Valley, it does enjoy tremendous vertical relief above local terrain. For example, its summit rises over 5,000 metres (16,400 ft) above the Hunza River, in a horizontal distance of 15 kilometres (9 mi).

The mountain was named (as “Sangemarmur”, meaning in Persian “ore/ heart of marble“, after a conspicuous band of yellow marble crossing the summit) in 1964 by the First Canadian Himalayan Expedition, comprising Fred Roots (leader), Donald Lyon, John Ricker, Lisle Irwin, Donald Poole, Hermann Jamek, Momin Khalifa and Karl Tomm. They intended to locate and climb Hachindar Chhish, which they determined to be a peak a few kilometers to the west of Sangemarmar Sar; however that peak proved too difficult and technical for the party to attempt. The expedition reached 6,300 metres (20,700 ft) but was then forced to retreat by repeated heavy snowstorms.

On July 11, 1984, a team from Osaka University made the first ascent of the mountain via the southwest ridge. The expedition comprised Takashi Matsuo (leader), Hiromi Okuyama, Takehiro Hirota, Tokio Kozuki, Masaya Oishi, Toru Sakakibara, Kenya Sato, Shinichi Miyata, Tomoyoshi Mizukawa, Hiroyuki Onishi, and Akira Noguchi. All members reached the summit, on two separate days. They encountered ice up to 50 degrees. They used three high camps, and fixed 3,000 metres (10,000 ft) of rope.^[1]