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Malungutti Sar 

 
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Discover the Majestic Malungutti Sar (7207m) in Shimshal Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan

Introduction

Nestled amidst the rugged terrain of Gilgit-Baltistan, Malungutti Sar stands tall at an impressive 7,207 meters (23,652 feet), making it one of the prominent high-altitude peaks in the Shimshal Valley. Known for its challenging ascent and stunning natural beauty, Malungutti Sar attracts mountaineers, trekkers, and adventure enthusiasts from around the world seeking a true Himalayan expedition.

About Malungutti Sar

Malungutti Sar is part of the formidable mountain range in the Shimshal Valley, a remote region renowned for its towering peaks and pristine wilderness. Its steep, snow-covered slopes and rugged ridges present a formidable challenge for climbers, offering a unique opportunity to test their skills against one of the highest summits in the region.

Climbing & Trekking Opportunities

While Malungutti Sar is primarily a mountaineering objective for experienced climbers, trekking routes around Shimshal Valley provide breathtaking scenery and access to base camp areas. The ascent involves glacier crossings, technical climbing, and acclimatization to high altitudes.

The Climbing Route

The typical ascent begins from Shimshal Village, traversing through rugged terrain to reach base camp. From there, climbers ascend the glacier and face technical challenges on the snow and ice slopes leading to the summit. Due to its altitude and difficulty, Malungutti Sar requires proper expedition planning, technical gear, and experienced guides.

Best Time to Climb

The optimal climbing season is during July to September, when weather conditions are relatively stable, and snow conditions are suitable for climbing.

Preparation & Safety Tips

  • Ensure proper acclimatization before attempting the ascent
  • Use technical gear such as crampons, ice axes, and ropes
  • Hire experienced mountain guides familiar with the region
  • Prepare physically and mentally for high-altitude conditions
  • Respect the environment and follow sustainable climbing practices

Why Climb Malungutti Sar?

Scaling Malungutti Sar offers a once-in-a-lifetime experience, combining technical mountaineering with the natural beauty of the Karakorum range. It’s an excellent choice for seasoned climbers looking for a challenging summit in Gilgit-Baltistan.

Book Your Expedition Today!

Interested in conquering Malungutti Sar? Contact us for detailed expedition plans, guided climbs, and customized mountaineering packages.

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đŸ—ș Malungutti Sar Trek Itinerary

Duration: 10–12 Days
Season: July – September
Start/End Point: Gilgit → Shimshal Valley → Gilgit

đŸ•ïž Day 1: Arrival in Gilgit

→Fly or drive into Gilgit (gateway to Shimshal).

→Overnight in Gilgit.

🚙 Day 2: Jeep to Shimshal Village

→Early morning 6‑8 hr jeep drive along the Karakoram Highway and the Shimshal Road.

→Arrive at Shimshal Village (3,100 m)—base for all treks in the Shimshal Valley.

→Meet your local Wakhi guides and porters.
Note: Skardu, Khaplu, and Hushe are in Baltistan, a separate region of Gilgit‑Baltistan.

đŸ„Ÿ Day 3: Trek Shimshal Village → Karun Koh Base Campsite

→Follow the Shimshal River upstream.

→Cross small suspension bridges; pass Wakhi shepherd camps.

→Camp at the Karun Koh base meadow (3,600 m).

🧗 Day 4: Base Camp to High Camp

→Steeper climb onto the lateral moraine of the Karun Koh Glacier.

→Set up High Camp (4,200 m) with views of Malungutti Sar’s north ridge.

đŸ”ïž Day 5–7: Acclimatization & Route Reconnaissance

→Practice glacier travel, crevasse rescue drills.

→Explore a nearby ridge for summit-route scouting.

→Rest and prepare gear for summit push.

đŸš© Day 8: Summit Push (Optional/Technical)

→Pre-dawn departure to tackle the ridge/snow couloir toward Malungutti Sar (approx. 6,950 m).

→Return to High Camp for overnight.

đŸ”ïž Day 9: Return to Base Camp

→Descend safely down the glacier to the Karun Koh meadow.

→Camp and celebrate the climb.

⛰ Day 10: Trek Back to Shimshal Village

→Easy descent along the river.

→Final farewell with local families in Shimshal.
Overnight: Shimshal Village

🚙 Day 11: Drive Shimshal → Gilgit

→Return by jeep to Gilgit.

→Optional cultural tour of Gilgit Bazaar.
Overnight: Gilgit

✈ Day 12: Departure

→Fly/drive onward from Gilgit.