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DIRAN PEAK EXPEDITION

🏔️ Diran Peak Expedition – The Hidden Gem of Nagar Valley, Hunza

Introduction

Diran Peak (7,266 meters / 23,839 feet), located in the Rakaposhi–Haramosh Range of the Karakoram Mountains, is a dazzling pyramid-shaped peak in the heart of Nagar Valley, opposite the majestic Rakaposhi. Known for its beauty and deceptive calm, Diran is often overlooked — yet it remains one of the most aesthetically pleasing and technically rewarding 7,000m climbs in Pakistan.

Its snow-covered flanks, graceful ridges, and serene surroundings make it a perfect objective for climbers seeking a balance between adventure and serenity. Diran offers a non-technical but physically demanding route, ideal for climbers acclimatizing for higher peaks or those pursuing their first 7,000m summit.


📍 Location

.          Region: Nagar Valley, Hunza, Gilgit-Baltistan

.          Altitude: 7,266 meters (23,839 feet)

.          Coordinates: Near Minapin village, directly across Rakaposhi

.          Range: Rakaposhi-Haramosh sub-range, Karakoram

.          Access: Gilgit → Minapin → Diran Base Camp


🌟 Unique Features of Diran Peak

.          Stunning pyramid shape visible from Karakoram Highway

.          Lies close to the Rakaposhi massif, offering exceptional views

.          Accessible base camp through a lush green valley trek

.         A “silent killer” known for unpredictable weather and avalanche risk

.          Less crowded, peaceful alternative to more commercial peaks


🗓️ Best Time to Climb

.          Optimal Climbing Season: Mid-June to Mid-August

.          This period ensures the most stable weather, clear skies, and safe snow conditions.


🗺️ Diran Peak Expedition Itinerary (26 Days)

DayActivity
01Arrival in Islamabad, briefing with Alpine Club of Pakistan
02Fly or drive to Gilgit
03Drive to Minapin village in Nagar Valley
04Trek to Tagaphari (Base Camp)
05Rest and acclimatization
06–26Climbing period: Set up camps, acclimatize, summit push
27Descend to Minapin
28Return to Gilgit
29Fly/drive to Islamabad
30Departure from Pakistan

🏕️ Camps Overview

.           Base Camp – ~3,400m (Tagaphari)

.          Camp I – 4,800m (via glacier route)

.          Camp II – 5,900m

.          Summit – 7,266m

The route follows the southwest ridge, with several crevasse zones and snowfields.


🧗 Difficulty Level & Challenges

Diran is considered moderately difficult (PD/AD) in alpine grading. Though it lacks severe technical demands, climbers face:

.          Unpredictable snow and weather

.          Crevasses and seracs

.          Risk of avalanches, especially during late-season climbs

.          A high physical and mental endurance requirement


🧳 What’s Included in the Expedition Package?

.          Climbing permit and government approvals

.          Liaison officer and porters

.          Domestic transportation (flights, jeeps)

.          Meals and accommodation throughout expedition

.          High-altitude tents and technical gear (on request)

.          Experienced climbing guides and support team

.         Satellite phone and emergency support


🌄 Visual & Cultural Highlights

.          Jaw-dropping views of Rakaposhi (7,788m), Ultar Sar, and Golden Peak

.          Trekking through Minapin Glacier, meadows, and scenic alpine camps

.          Immersion into Burushaski-speaking Nagar culture

.          Rich flora and fauna of Tagaphari Plateau


🛡️ Safety & Climbing Ethics

At Chogholingsa Trek & Tours Pakistan, your safety is paramount. We provide:

.         Weather monitoring and acclimatization strategies

.          Emergency evacuation coordination

.          Experienced local and foreign-trained guides

.          Sustainable, eco-friendly mountaineering practices


🌐 Why Choose Chogholingsa for Your Diran Expedition?

.         15+ years of expertise in Karakoram expeditions

.         Personalized service with small-group focus

.          Local teams with cultural and geographic knowledge

.          Affordable, customizable expedition packages

.          Trusted by international climbers and tour operators

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