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🏔️ Saraghrar I Peak Expedition – The Throne of the Hindu Kush

Introduction

Rising to a mighty 7,349 meters (24,111 ft), Saraghrar I is the highest peak in the Hindu Raj sub-range of the Hindu Kush Mountains, located in Shogram Valley, Chitral, northern Pakistan. Majestic, remote, and fiercely challenging, Saraghrar I is a magnet for elite climbers and adventurous souls drawn to its untamed beauty, technical ridges, and isolation from the crowded Karakoram routes.

With towering walls, knife-edged arêtes, and long glacier approaches, Saraghrar demands strength, commitment, and skill — making it a rare jewel among Pakistan’s 7,000m giants. Fewer than a dozen successful expeditions have reached its summit, placing it among the least climbed major peaks in the world.


📍 Location

.          Mountain Range: Hindu Raj, a western extension of the Hindu Kush

.          Peak Elevation: 7,349 meters (24,111 feet)

.          Region: Shogram Valley, District Chitral, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa

.          Coordinates: Close to Roshgol Glacier and Tirich Mir Massif


🏞️ Why Climb Saraghrar I?

.          Unclimbed ridges and untouched alpine terrain

.          One of the most aesthetically magnificent peaks in Chitral

.          A truly remote and off-the-grid Himalayan experience

.          Opportunity to make first ascents on sub-peaks and ridges

.          Ultimate test of high-altitude climbing mastery


🗓️ Best Season to Climb

.          July to Early September

.          This short window offers the best weather conditions for summit attempts, with relatively stable skies and lower avalanche risk.


🗺️ Saraghrar I Expedition Itinerary (35 Days)

DayActivity
01Arrival in Islamabad, expedition briefing
02–03Travel to Chitral (via flight to Chitral or drive through Dir)
04Rest and logistics in Chitral
05Drive to Shogram village (jeep track)
06–08Trek through Roshgol Valley to Base Camp
9–29Climbing period – Route establishment, acclimatization, summit push
30Return to Shogram
31 Back to Chitral
32–33Return to Islamabad
34Debriefing at Ministry of Tourism
35Departure

🏕️ Camps on the Mountain

.          Base Camp (~4,000m) – Above Roshgol Glacier

.          Camp I (~5,100m) – Ice/snow ridge

.          Camp II (~6,000m) – High glacier plateau

.          Camp III (~6,700m) – Summit push zone

.         Summit – 7,349m

Most routes require fixed rope, ice anchors, and advanced alpine techniques.


🧗 Technical Difficulty & Risks

Saraghrar is ranked D to TD+ in Alpine grading — Difficile to Très Difficile. It is one of the most technically complex and hazardous peaks in Pakistan due to:

.          Serac falls and cornices

.          Crevasse-laced glaciers

.          Mixed climbing (rock, snow, and ice)

.          Remote evacuation challenges

It is not recommended for amateur climbers and is best suited for teams with strong Himalayan experience.


🧳 What’s Included in the Package?

.          Special climbing permit from Gilgit/Islamabad

.          Liaison officer and supporting porters

.          Internal flights (if available) and ground transport

.           Base camp infrastructure (kitchen, tents, staff)

.          Climbing gear support (available on request)

.          Emergency communication and logistics

  • Local cultural excursions (on request)


🌄 Cultural and Natural Wonders

.          Stunning views of Tirich Mir (7,708m) and Istor-o-Nal

.          Serene, untouched valleys of Shogram and Roshgol

.          Interaction with Kalasha and Chitrali culture

.          Unexplored flora and crystal-clear streams of the Hindu Raj


🛡️ Safety & Support System

Chogholingsa Trek & Tours Pakistan guarantees:

.          Highly experienced high-altitude guides

.          Emergency contingency planning

.          Base camp medical kits and monitoring

.          Reliable satellite communication

.          Alpine-style ethical climbing


🌐 Why Choose Chogholingsa for Saraghrar?

.          One of the very few operators offering Saraghrar logistics

.         Custom routes for technical expeditions or scientific exploration

.          Expertise in high-risk Himalayan navigation

.          Community engagement with eco-tourism principles

.          Full support for documentary, research, or first-ascent projects