🏔️ About Gangchen Peak

Gangchen Peak (approx. 6,462 m / 21,200 ft), located above Saisko (Siasko) Village in Shigar Valley, is part of the Spantik–Sosbun subrange of the Karakoram. It was first climbed in 1979 by an eight‑man Japanese expedition under Tohru Shibazaki, who ascended via the north snow ridge after preparing a complex rocky spur route. The summit was reached on July 30–31, 1979 by teams including Koji Sasaki, Yasutaka Kanamori, Ryoichi Shikama, S. Takahashi, and K. Mizaki Modern operators like Apricot Tours and Chogori Adventure still promote it as accessible yet seldom-attempted, but archival records show it is not unclimbed 

🌟 Highlights

→  Historic first ascent route of the 1979 Japanese expedition

→  Spectacular views of Spantik (Golden Peak), Nanga Parbat, and Karakoram giants

→  Trek through Shigar Valley, lush riverbanks, and high alpine glacier terrain

→  Base Camp on Hoh‑Lungma Glacier (14,375 ft), and high camps mirroring the original route

→  Technical route including rock spur and north snow ridge

→  Cultural immersion in Saisko Valley village life

→  Perfect acclimatization for higher-altitude ambitions

📅 Suggested Itinerary (18 Days / 17 Nights

Day 1: Arrival in Islamabad; briefing and rest at hotel.
Day 2: Fly Islamabad → Skardu; sightseeing in Skardu.
Day 3: Rest and gear prep in Skardu.
Day 4: Jeep drive to Saisko Village via Shigar Valley and hot springs; camp in Saisko  3AAC Publications.
Day 5: Trek 3–4 hours to Gangchen Base Camp (~4,400 m).
Day 6–7: Acclimatization and load carries around Base Camp.
Day 8–9: Establish Camp I at ~4,850 m and fix lines on rock spur to Gangchen–Hikmul col (~5,930 m) — duplicating the original route.
Day 10: Move to Camp II / Camp III on the col at ~5,930 m (19,450 ft).
Day 11: Summit push via north snow ridge—crossing multiple false summits before reaching Gangchen summit.
Day 12: Reserve or weather contingency day for summit attempt.
Day 13–14: Descend to Base Camp and trek back to Saisko.
Day 15: Drive to Skardu; leisure or recovery.
Day 16: Fly Skardu → Islamabad; rest day.
Day 17: Optional day-trip in Islamabad or local sightseeing.
Day 18: Departure.

📋 Package Inclusions

→  International Airport pickup in Islamabad

→  Domestic flight Islamabad ↔ Skardu

→  Ground transport Skardu → Saisko → Islamabad

→  Local climbing crew, porters, guides

→  Base Camp and high camp tents, dining tents

→  Meals from Islamabad to descent (without dehydration gear)

→  Fixed ropes and technical climbing support replicating 1979 route strategy

→  Permits, insurance, and first aid kit

❌ Exclusions

→  Personal climbing gear (e.g., harness, helmet, crampons, sleeping bag)

→  Travel insurance beyond mountaineering liability

→  Tips/gratuities

→  Personal snacks or bottled beverages

→  Optional sightseeing or post-climb tours not stated

🧳 Recommended Equipment & Prep

→  Mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axe

→  Warm and layered clothing (temperatures very cold at summit)

→  Headlamp, power bank, water purification

→  High-altitude sunscreen and UV protection

→  Personal medical kit

→  Climbing experience at 5,000 m+ recommended

📌 Why Choose This Expedition?

→  Follow in the footsteps of history—the Japanese 1979 first ascent team

→  A rare chance to climb a less-frequented 6,400 m peak with remarkable ridge and glacier approaches

→  Enjoy both cultural immersion (Saisko, Shigar) and alpine challenge

→  Ideal acclimatization route for aspiring 7,000 m and 8,000 m expeditions

📚 Additional Notes

→  Confirmed first ascent by Japanese team in July 1979 via north ridge route—no known earlier ascents

→  Local naming: Gangchen, Gangchan, or Gangchan Peak—all refer to the same summit above Saisko in Shigar Valley.

→  Described by operators as lightly technical but involves steep icy terrain, fixed ropes, and glacier crossings akin to its classic route