Skyang Kangri expedition

🏔️ Skyang Kangri – The Stairway to the Sky

Skyang Kangri, often referred to as the “Stairway to Heaven”, is a formidable 7,544-meter (24,754 ft) mountain standing tall in the Baltoro Muztagh subrange of the Karakoram Mountains, straddling the border between Pakistan and China. Towering just 8 kilometers northeast of K2, it remains in the shadow of more famous giants—yet commands respect with its symmetrical pyramid shape and glaciated ridges.

📍 Location & Geography

Skyang Kangri rises at the confluence of Baltoro Glacier and the Godwin-Austen Glacier, offering unparalleled views of the greatest concentration of high peaks on Earth. It lies east of the Abruzzi Ridge of K2, on the border between the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan and Xinjiang, China.

. Region: Baltoro Muztagh, Karakoram Range

. Height: 7,544 meters (24,754 ft)

. Coordinates: Approx. 35.88°N, 76.55°E

. Nearby Peaks: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum IV

“Skyang Kangri is not just a mountain; it’s a frozen staircase to the sky.”

🧗 Climbing History

Skyang Kangri was first climbed in 1976 by a Japanese expedition led by Yoshihiro Kuriki. Despite its proximity to K2, it has remained mostly untouched, drawing only experienced alpinists due to its harsh conditions and remote location.

. First Ascent: 1976 by Japanese team

. Route: South Face via Skyang Glacier

. Climbing Grade: Alpine PD+ to AD (varies with snow/ice conditions)

. Technical Features: Glaciated slopes, exposed ridgelines, avalanche risk

🧭 Best Season to Climb

Season	Details
Summer (June–August)	Best window for weather & logistics
Autumn (Sept)	Risky but scenic; clearer skies

🌐 Skyang Kangri vs. Other Karakoram Giants

Peak	Elevation	Distance from Skyang Kangri	Popularity
K2	8,611 m	8 km	Extremely high
Broad Peak	8,051 m	12 km	High
Skyang Kangri	7,544 m	–	Low/moderate

🥾 Trekking Access to Base Camp

. Approach:

. Islamabad → Skardu (by air or road)

. Skardu → Askole (via 4×4 Jeep)

. Askole → Concordia Trek → Skyang Kangri Base Camp

Duration: 30–35 days (round trip with acclimatization)
Viewpoints: Concordia, Godwin-Austen Glacier, K2 Base Camp

💬 Why Climb Skyang Kangri?

. Remote and peaceful alternative to K2

. Offers panoramic views of the Karakoram from its summit

. Less crowded, ideal for true expedition climbers

. Part of the Concordia wilderness, the “Throne Room of the Mountain Gods”

. Culturally significant and rarely climbed, offering exploration appeal

Photographic Opportunities

Skyang Kangri at dawn from Concordia

Dramatic shadow of K2 across Skyang Glacier

Base camp under the Milky Way

Climber silhouettes on the south face

Climbing Essentials

Permit Required from Gilgit-Baltistan Council

Liaison Officer mandatory

Use of experienced porters and local guides recommended

Equipment: High-altitude boots, ice gear, GPS, satellite phone, high camp tents

Permit & Regulation Info

Requirement	Status
Climbing Permit	Required
Liaison Officer	Mandatory
Insurance & Rescue	Highly advised
Guide Services	Recommended

Suggested Itinerary (15 Days)

	Day	Itinerary
	1	Arrive in Islamabad
	2	Fly to Skardu (weather permitting)
	3	Drive to Askole
	4–8	Trek to Concordia
	9	Trek to Skyang Kangri Base Camp
	10–25	Acclimatization and climbing days
	26	Return back to askole
	30	Askole
	31 to33	Return to skardu – Islamabad & onward
Conclusion Skyang Kangri is a hidden marvel in the world’s highest mountain range. Often overlooked due to its mighty neighbor K2, it offers a raw, pristine climbing experience for those willing to journey off the beaten path. Whether you’re a mountaineer seeking new challenges or a dreamer chasing Himalayan silence, Skyang Kangri awaits — aloof, icy, and magnificent.