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Yazghil Sar expedition

Yazghil Sar Expedition (7,324m)

The Yazghil Sar Expedition (7,324 meters) is a serious high-altitude mountaineering challenge located in the remote Shimshal region of the Karakoram Range, Pakistan. Rising above the massive Yazghil Glacier, Yazghil Sar is one of the highest and most demanding peaks in the Shimshal Valley, offering a true expedition-style climb in a wild and untouched mountain environment.

This expedition is suitable for experienced climbers looking to step into the 7,000-meter category before attempting 8,000m giants of the Karakoram.

Overview of Yazghil Sar Peak

  • Height: 7,324 meters (24,029 ft)
  • Location: Shimshal Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
  • Mountain Range: Karakoram
  • First Ascent: 1964 (Japanese Expedition)
  • Climbing Style: Expedition / Alpine

Yazghil Sar is surrounded by iconic Karakoram peaks such as Distaghil Sar, Kanjut Sar, and Malangutti Sar, creating one of the most dramatic high-mountain landscapes in Pakistan.

Why Choose Yazghil Sar Expedition

  • A true 7,000m expedition peak
  • Remote and less crowded than popular Karakoram climbs
  • Excellent preparation for 8,000m expeditions
  • Long glacier approach and technical terrain
  • Strong cultural experience in Shimshal Valley

Yazghil Sar is often chosen by climbers aiming to progress toward peaks like Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, or K2.

Route and Climbing Description

The normal route to Yazghil Sar involves long glacier travel, snow slopes, and technical summit sections.

Route Characteristics:

  • Extensive travel on the Yazghil Glacier
  • Steep snow slopes (40–55 degrees)
  • Crevasse navigation and ice sections
  • Possible fixed ropes on steep sections
  • Narrow and exposed summit ridge

The climb demands strong technical ability, endurance, and altitude tolerance.

Best Season for Yazghil Sar Expedition

The best time to climb Yazghil Sar is during the Karakoram summer season:

  • Late June to early September
  • Best summit window: July to August

Weather windows are short, and patience is essential.

Difficulty Level & Required Experience

Yazghil Sar is rated challenging to very challenging.

Recommended Experience:

  • Prior climbs above 6,000 meters
  • Strong snow, ice, and glacier travel skills
  • Experience using fixed ropes and technical equipment
  • Excellent physical fitness and mental resilience

This expedition is not suitable for beginners.

Yazghil Sar Expedition Itinerary (Approx. 35–40 Days)

Phase 1: Arrival & Logistics

Day 1–2: Arrival in Islamabad, briefing & permits
Day 3: Flight to Gilgit
Day 4: Drive to Shimshal Valley

Phase 2: Trek to Base Camp

Day 5–9: Trek along Yazghil Glacier to Base Camp
Day 10: Rest & acclimatization

Phase 3: Acclimatization & Camp Setup

Day 11–26:

  • Establish Camp I, II, and III
  • Load carries and acclimatization rotations

Phase 4: Summit Push

Day 27–32:

  • Summit attempt
  • Descent to Base Camp

Phase 5: Return

Day 33–36: Trek back to Shimshal
Day 37: Drive to Gilgit
Day 38–40: Fly to Islamabad & departure

Cost of Yazghil Sar Expedition

Estimated Cost:
💰 USD 9,000 – 15,000 per person

Cost Includes:

  • Government peak permit & royalties
  • Domestic flights & road transport
  • Base Camp accommodation and meals
  • High-altitude porters & climbing support
  • Group climbing equipment

Cost Excludes:

  • International airfare
  • Personal climbing gear
  • Insurance & rescue coverage
  • Tips and personal expenses

Safety & Risk Management

  • Professional expedition leadership
  • Weather forecasting and route assessment
  • Emergency communication systems
  • Strict acclimatization schedule

Despite professional support, Yazghil Sar remains a high-risk expedition peak.

Why Climb Yazghil Sar in Pakistan

  • Access to world-class 7,000m Karakoram peaks
  • Remote and pristine mountain terrain
  • Strong local mountaineering culture
  • Cost-effective compared to other high-altitude regions

Pakistan is one of the best destinations globally for serious mountaineering.

Conclusion

The Yazghil Sar Expedition (7,324m) offers a demanding, remote, and rewarding high-altitude climbing experience in the heart of the Karakoram. With its technical routes, expedition character, and breathtaking scenery, Yazghil Sar is an ideal choice for climbers aiming to push beyond 6,000m and prepare for the world’s highest peaks.

Yazghil Sar Expedition Itinerary (Approx. 35–40 Days)

Phase 1: Arrival & Logistics

Day 1–2: Arrival in Islamabad, briefing & permits
Day 3: Flight to Gilgit
Day 4: Drive to Shimshal Valley

Phase 2: Trek to Base Camp

Day 5–9: Trek along Yazghil Glacier to Base Camp
Day 10: Rest & acclimatization

Phase 3: Acclimatization & Camp Setup

Day 11–26:

  • Establish Camp I, II, and III
  • Load carries and acclimatization rotations

Phase 4: Summit Push

Day 27–32:

  • Summit attempt
  • Descent to Base Camp

Phase 5: Return

Day 33–36: Trek back to Shimshal
Day 37: Drive to Gilgit
Day 38–40: Fly to Islamabad & departure

Cost of Yazghil Sar Expedition

Estimated Cost:
💰 USD 9,000 – 15,000 per person

Cost Includes:

  • Government peak permit & royalties
  • Domestic flights & road transport
  • Base Camp accommodation and meals
  • High-altitude porters & climbing support
  • Group climbing equipment

Cost Excludes:

  • International airfare
  • Personal climbing gear
  • Insurance & rescue coverage
  • Tips and personal expenses

Safety & Risk Management

  • Professional expedition leadership
  • Weather forecasting and route assessment
  • Emergency communication systems
  • Strict acclimatization schedule

Despite professional support, Yazghil Sar remains a high-risk expedition peak.

Why Climb Yazghil Sar in Pakistan

  • Access to world-class 7,000m Karakoram peaks
  • Remote and pristine mountain terrain
  • Strong local mountaineering culture
  • Cost-effective compared to other high-altitude regions

Pakistan is one of the best destinations globally for serious mountaineering.

Conclusion

The Yazghil Sar Expedition (7,324m) offers a demanding, remote, and rewarding high-altitude climbing experience in the heart of the Karakoram. With its technical routes, expedition character, and breathtaking scenery, Yazghil Sar is an ideal choice for climbers aiming to push beyond 6,000m and prepare for the world’s highest peaks.

TERMS & CONDITION:

Chogholingsa Trek &Tours promulgates its terms and conditions for any kind of trip, trekking, mountaineering, hiking, rafting, wild safaris and other services being operated so far by the company. The terms and conditions set forth will bring forward its limitations before any interested visitor advances for the programs alluded.

What should our clients do for reservation of any kind of services provided by the company?

40% of payment in advance should be made up 1 month earlier or as soon as the trip is confirmed, since it is a proof that you are sure to attempt the trip. It should be done as alluded so that the company can manage all the necessary documents, permissions and required field staffs.

The full settlement of the payment should be cleared before the client proceeds for the trip or any kind of service at the arrival in Pakistan.

The advance payment is not refundable in case of overturning the trip in any condition on behalf of the client.

The advance payment is only refundable if the holding company shows any technical impediments regarding the trip.

No refund is made for 40% deposit amount in case of delay arrival, no show or cancellation of trip for any other else reason.

For any consideration regarding the terms alluded, a bilateral negotiation can be attempted between the hosting company and the client

The advance payment can be directly deposited to our bank account through any bank in the world.

1: REFUND:

No refund will be made for 50% deposit amount in case of cancellation of trip for any other else reason. Having paid full amount of any trip, you’re entitled to incur refund in case if you want to cancel your trip. Still, cancellation charge is invoiced to you. Written notification of your cancellation should be made to cancel any trip. Nevertheless, you’re imposed cancellation charge as advised below: –

2: SUPPLEMENT CHARGE:

On our holidays tour / trek packages, rooms or tents are provided in twin sharing basis. Thus, single room supplement charge will be imposed to client who does not have another tour participant to share room / tent with.

3: INCOMPLETE TOUR:

No refund will be made to clients who drop out from the journey regardless of whatever portions remain unused in the itinerary.

4: CLIENTS’ RESPONSIBLE:

A tour / trek guide who represents Chogholingsa trek & Tours deserves all authority during your tours. If you commit any unlawful act, you are compelled to leave the tour. No refund will be made in such case.

5: IMPACT ON YOUR JOURNEY:

We put our every effort to ensure comfortable traveling of yours,but it is must to understand that what you might be accustomed to in the western affluent countries, the Asian countries can’t afford such facilities. Weather is another factor that directly impact on your journey. Hence, patience in mind, enthusiasm and proper preparation before head is must to venture into journey.

6:  TRAVEL INSURANCE:

You must purchase comprehensive travel insurance package against medical, natural calamity, helicopter evacuation, personal accident, trip cancellation etc. This is  suggested to all our esteemed clients.

7: TOUR AMENDMENT:

To make alterations of any trek / tour itinerary, prior notice is requested. You’re advised to stay in touch with us thus. But occasionally, you may be obliged to do so en route under certain circumstance for instance bad weather etc.

8: PAPERS AND DOCUMENTS:

All necessary documents should be presented in sequence for example to issue visa, necessary permits etc. We’re not accountable in case of any trip formality not completed in time before the trip departs on the absent of essential papers and documents.

9:  RISK AND RESPONSIBILITY:

Your safety and enjoyment is our prime concern. We therefore carry out our responsibility honestly & sincerely to ensure your holiday trouble–free as well as you have desired. Nevertheless, unless stated otherwise, trip may be change under uncertain and inherent circumstances such as land-slides, road blockage, flood, snow political unrest, cancellation of flight, delay arrival, sickness or accidents etc. Any extra cost incurring there is your personal responsibility and should be borne on the spot.

10: FLIGHT DELAY / CANCELLATION:

There is virtually possibility of flight delay or postponement for notorious weather in Karakoram & Himalayan Mountain regions of Pakistan which could be happened,  especially during off season, you’re highly advised to reserve extra days to prepare with some delays and avoid frustrating consequence. In case of flight cancellation pre-tour/post-tour, you need to meet your accommodation and food costs yourself.

Chogholingsa Trek & Tours puts every effort to ensure your comfortable traveling, but it is must to understand that what you might be accustomed to in the other affluent countries, the Asian countries can’t afford such facilities. Weather is another factor that directly impacts your journey. Hence, patience in mind, enthusiasm and proper preparation before beginning is must to venture into journey.

→01  RESERVATIONS / PAYMENTS:

A non-refundable deposit of $300 or 15% of the tour is required in order to make a reservation with the company. Total balance is due 3 weeks prior to departure. When price once fixed then any extra expenses will not be charged to the client

→02  MODE OF PAYMENT:   Bank Transfer:

Account Details

Bank Name:          →Habib Bank Pvt.LTD.


Account Title:      →Chogholingsa


IBAN NO:               →PK73 HABB 0004767901352403


swift code               → HABBPKKA Or HABBPKKA476


Branch Code         →0476


Branch name:       →Main Bazar Branch Skardu

OUR SERVICES

Included

01:-  Airport pick and drop

02:-  Accommodation bed & B.fast, twin bedroom in Islamabad and other cities standard air-condition rooms.

03:-  Flight Ticket or transportation from Islamabad/ Skardu/ Gilgit/chitral or from these cities to Islamabad

04:-  Skardu/Gilgit/Hunza Hotel (bed & breakfast)

05:-  Two nights in Chilas/ Besham hotel (bed & breakfast) incase of flight cancellation.

06:-  Jeeps Skardu/Askoli/ Hushe/ Skardu/shimshal/Chitral/Kalash or vice virsa.

07:-  Wages, insurance, food equipment of cook

08:-  Wages, insurance, food equipment of Assistant cook,

09:-  Wages, insurance, food of Porter Sirdar

10:-  Porter Payment, Low altitude porters.

11:-  Baggage,75 kg (going time) and 50 kgs  (on return) for expedition 45 days or more and 25 kg for trekking group & trekking peak    

12:-  Full board camp food during trek & at base camp.

13:-  Mess tent, Kitchen tent, store tent, table , chairs and kitchen equipment

14:-  Reconfirmation of international flight tickets.

15:-  Camping fees, road taxes & bridge crossing of expedition members & Porters.

16:-  Porters Equipments.

17:-  Assistance in obtaining climbing permit and other documentations

18:-  Briefing and debriefing in the Ministry of tourism

19:-  CKNP fee: US $ 150/per member

20:-  1000 US$ guarantee pollution fee.

21:-  200 US$ environmental protection fund.

22:-  Fuel, Tarpaulin, and Stove for porters.

23:-  Kerosene Oil for porter and Members

24:-  Toilet tent and shower tent

25:-  Members will have individual D-4  in Base camp tents, and mattress for expeditions more than one month

26:-  LO insurance or guide transport and hotel/ equipment and TA/DA.

27:-  Royalty fee and additional member fee


Not Included

1:-  Sleeping bags, rucksacks and personal clothing.

02:-  Medication, ground evacuation and helicopter rescue (US$15,000) of any kind.

03:-  Room services, laundry charges, beverages and items of personal nature. Phone /communication

04:-  Climbing food beyond base camp, equipment, high altitude Porters wages bills.

05:-  Insurance or liability of any members.

06:-  Tip to staff

07:-  Custom clearing and forwarding agent’s charge.

08:-  Food & drinks during stay in hotel (City)

09:-  Transport to other cities or places out of itinerary

10:-  Custom clearing and forwarding agent’s charge.

11:-  Extra baggage charges during international or domestic flight

12:-  Insurance or liability of any members.

1. What is the height of Yazghil Sar?

Yazghil Sar is approximately 7,324 meters (24,029 feet) high, making it one of the major 7,000-meter peaks in the Karakoram Range of Pakistan.

2. Where is Yazghil Sar located?

Yazghil Sar is located in the Shimshal Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan, rising above the Yazghil Glacier in the Karakoram Range.

3. Is Yazghil Sar a technical mountain?

Yes. Yazghil Sar is a technically demanding expedition peak involving glacier travel, steep snow and ice slopes, crevasse navigation, and exposed summit sections.

4. Who should attempt the Yazghil Sar Expedition?

This expedition is suitable for experienced mountaineers who have:

  • Climbed peaks above 6,000 meters
  • Strong snow and ice climbing skills
  • Experience with high-altitude expeditions

It is not suitable for beginners.

5. What is the best season to climb Yazghil Sar?

The best climbing season for Yazghil Sar is:

  • Late June to early September
  • Best summit window: July and August

Weather windows are short and unpredictable.

6. How long does the Yazghil Sar Expedition take?

A full Yazghil Sar Expedition usually takes 35 to 40 days, including:

  • Approach trek
  • Acclimatization
  • Camp rotations
  • Summit attempt
  • Return journey

7. What is the normal route on Yazghil Sar?

The normal route follows the Yazghil Glacier, ascending via snow and ice slopes to multiple high camps before reaching the summit ridge.

8. Is supplemental oxygen used on Yazghil Sar?

Supplemental oxygen is not commonly used, but it can be arranged upon request depending on climber preference and expedition strategy.

9. How difficult is Yazghil Sar compared to other Karakoram peaks?

Yazghil Sar is more difficult than most 6,000m peaks and comparable to other challenging 7,000m Karakoram expeditions, making it excellent preparation for 8,000m climbs.

10. How much does the Yazghil Sar Expedition cost?

The cost typically ranges between:
USD 9,000 – 15,000 per climber, depending on group size and level of support.

11. What does the expedition cost include?

Usually included:

  • Pakistan government peak permit
  • Domestic flights and road transport
  • Base Camp meals and accommodation
  • High-altitude porters and guides
  • Group climbing equipment and logistics

12. What is not included in the cost?

Usually excluded:

  • International airfare
  • Personal climbing gear
  • Travel and rescue insurance
  • Tips and personal expenses

13. How physically demanding is the expedition?

The expedition is extremely demanding, requiring excellent endurance, strength, and the ability to function at very high altitude for extended periods.

14. Are rescues possible on Yazghil Sar?

Rescue operations are very limited due to remoteness, altitude, and weather. Climbers must be highly self-sufficient and properly insured.

15. Why choose Pakistan for Yazghil Sar Expedition?

Pakistan offers:

  • Access to some of the world’s best 7,000m peaks
  • Remote and untouched Karakoram terrain