Sherpi Kangri Expedition — 7,380 m

Overview

Karakoram Range | Pakistan

Sherpi Kangri (7,380 m) is one of the lofty and lesser-known giants of the Karakoram, located in the Siachen Muztagh subrange of Baltistan, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. Rising gracefully between the Siachen and Kondus glaciers, it dominates the northern skyline and is neighbored by prominent peaks such as Saltoro Kangri (7,742 m) and Ghent Kangri (7,401 m).

Due to its remote location near the Siachen Glacier, Sherpi Kangri is rarely visited compared to other 7000-meter peaks in Pakistan. Its slopes present a combination of snow, ice, and mixed alpine climbing terrain, making it a rewarding goal for serious mountaineers seeking a less crowded but challenging Karakoram objective.

Sherpi Kangri offers climbers the chance to venture into an untouched alpine world with magnificent views of the Karakoram, Siachen Glacier, and the Indo-Pak border ranges.

Fast Facts

Height: 7,380 m (24,212 ft)

Range: Siachen Muztagh, Karakoram

Location: Baltistan, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan

Neighboring Peaks: Saltoro Kangri (7,742 m), Ghent Kangri (7,401 m), Chogolisa (7,665 m)

First Ascent: Japanese expedition, 1976

Climbing Grade: Alpine AD+/D (varies by route and season)

Best Season: June – August

Highlights

• Unique Location: Situated between the Kondus and Siachen glaciers, giving rare access to a strategic yet pristine alpine environment.
• Historical First Ascent: Climbed in 1976 by a Japanese expedition, and still considered a seldom-attempted 7000er.
• Scenic Trek: Remote approach with dramatic glacier landscapes and breathtaking Karakoram panoramas.
• Challenging but Attainable: Offers both moderate ridges and steep alpine faces for varied climbing routes.
• Less Crowded: A true expedition experience without the commercial traffic of peaks like Spantik or Broad Peak.

Expedition Itinerary 

Day 1–2: Arrival in Islamabad; briefing with Ministry of Tourism.
Day 3–4: Fly/drive to Skardu (weather-dependent).
Day 5–6: Expedition preparation, shopping, staff meeting.
Day 7–9: Drive to Khaplu → Hushe/Kondus Valley; trek begins.
Day 10–13: Trek through Kondus Glacier → Sherpi Kangri Base Camp (~4,800 m).
Day 14–17: Acclimatization climbs & load carries; establish Advanced Base Camp.
Day 18–25: Climbing phase — establish higher camps (Camp I ~5,600 m, Camp II ~6,400 m); summit push to 7,380 m and descend.
Day 26–27: Extra contingency days for weather or summit attempt.
Day 28–29: Trek back to Hushe/Kondus → drive to Skardu.
Day 30: Flight to Islamabad; debriefing.

(Exact duration depends on weather and group performance.)

Services Included

✔️ Airport transfers in Islamabad
✔️ Domestic flights (Islamabad ↔ Skardu) or road transfers
✔️ Hotel stays in Islamabad & Skardu (twin-sharing)
✔️ Climbing permits & liaison officer fees
✔️ Trekking logistics: jeeps, porters, kitchen staff, cook
✔️ Base Camp services: tents, mess tent, food, fuel, kitchen equipment
✔️ Professional expedition guide & support staff
✔️ Medical kit and satellite communication (limited use)

Services Not Included

❌ International airfare
❌ Pakistan visa fees
❌ High-altitude food & tents above Base Camp
❌ Personal climbing gear (boots, crampons, ropes, harness, helmet, etc.)
❌ Rescue insurance & medical evacuation costs
❌ Tips for staff & porters

Suggested Gear List

• High-altitude boots & crampons
• Ice axes (technical + walking)
• Helmet, harness, ascenders/descenders, carabiners
• Down suit or jacket + insulated pants
• -30°C sleeping bag & personal high-altitude tent
• Layered clothing for glacier travel & base camp comfort
• Stove & personal rations (for higher camps)
• Personal medical kit