Shayaz Zom / Shayaz Peak
Introduction
Shayaz Zom (sometimes called just Shayaz) is a mountain in northern Pakistan, located where the Hindu Raj and Hindu Kush ranges interact. The peak reaches approximately 6,026 meters (19,770 ft) above sea level. silkroadguides.com+4Wikipedia+4peakbagger.com+4
Because of its remoteness and low climbing traffic, Shayaz is relatively little known compared to its more famous neighbors — making it appealing to expedition climbers seeking less trodden routes. Wikipedia+3apricottours.pk+3silkroadguides.com+3
Name & Location
→ The name is variously written as Shayaz, Shayaz Zom, Shayuz Zom in climbing and mapping sources. apricottours.pk+3PeakVisor App+3publications.americanalpineclub.org+3
→ Elevation: ~ 6,026 m (19,770 ft). Wikipedia+3peakbagger.com+3apricottours.pk+3
→ Prominence: about 1,797 m (5,895 ft) per some sources. peakbagger.com+2Wikipedia+2
→ Geographic setting: It lies in the Hindu Raj / Hindu Kush region, in what is now Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province (or on the border of that and adjoining ranges).
→ Coordinates (approx): ~ 36.6381° N, 72.81998° E for Shayuz Zom variant. PeakVisor App
→ Range context: Part of the Shayaz Massif, a cluster of peaks. Some sources point out that the “peak called Shayaz” in earlier climbs was not the highest in the massif. publications.americanalpineclub.org+2silkroadguides.com+2
Topography & Physical Features
→ Because Shayaz is in a rugged frontier range, its slopes are steep, and glacier / snow coverage is significant.
→ The massif contains multiple summits; earlier expeditions may have climbed a subpeak rather than the true highest summit. publications.americanalpineclub.org
→ The topography suggests sharp ridges, steep faces, and complex glacial terrain in its approaches.
→ The key col (saddle) is shown at ~4,229 m (i.e. the elevation drop to adjoining higher terrain) in one listing. peakbagger.com
Climbing Status & History
→ There is no widely verified, logged ascent (or at least no detailed public record) for the main summit of Shayaz.
→ The American Alpine Club discusses the Shayaz massif, noting that a Japanese team in 1993 climbed a peak they called “Shayaz I,” but that later photographic and mapping evidence suggests that was not the highest summit of the massif. publications.americanalpineclub.org
→ Because of this, the true “first ascent” of the highest point of Shayaz (if done) may still be open or ambiguous. publications.americanalpineclub.org+1
Why Climb / Why It Matters
→ Exploratory appeal: Because its climbing history is murky, it offers possibility for first ascents or new routes.
→ Scenic and remote terrain: Wild, dramatic mountain scenery away from mainstream peaks.
→ Range significance: It is one of the considerable peaks (over 6,000 m) in the Hindu Raj / Hindu Kush belt, contributing to the geography and mountaineering interest of that region.
→ Less trafficked: Climbers seeking solitude and less-crowded peaks may be drawn to it.
Access & Expedition Logistics
→ Base / Approach: Expeditions likely start from valleys in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa or adjacent areas, involving long overland traversal through rugged terrain. (Tour operators list “Shayaz Zom expedition” in their offerings)
→ Permits & Permissions: Because of remoteness and border zones, climbing Shayaz may require special permits, clearances, and coordination with local authorities.
→ Duration: Multi-week expedition including approach, acclimatization, establishing camps, summit push, and return.
→ Support: Use of local porters, guides with glacier experience, logistical supply, and possible high-altitude rescue planning.
→ Equipment: Standard high-mountain gear: ice axes, crampons, ropes, tents, weatherproof clothing, navigation & communication gear (satellite phones or radios).
Best Time to Attempt
→ The climbing window is likely summer to early autumn (June to September), when snow is relatively stable and conditions are less extreme.
→ Avoid monsoon season (if it affects that region) or winter due to heavy snow, avalanche risk, and difficult access.
Suggested Itinerary
| Day | Activity |
|---|---|
| Day 1 | Arrival in Islamabad / Peshawar / base city; gear check & logistics |
| Day 2 | Travel toward approach valley gate / road head |
| Day 3–5 | Trek and approach through valleys to base camp |
| Day 6–8 | Acclimatization rotations & intermediate camps |
| Day 9 | Summit push (weather permitting) or high camp rest |
| Day 10+ | Descent & return trek |
| Final | Return to base city, travel home |
Environmental & Cultural Context
→ Local Communities: Inhabitants of the surrounding valleys may have unique cultural, linguistic, or traditional ties to the mountains.
→ Flora & Fauna: At high altitudes, you may see alpine plants, birds of high altitude, possibly mountain goats, snow leopards (if habitat), etc.
→ Conservation Issues: Glacial retreat, climate change effects on snow/ice cover, waste management in expedition zones, preserving fragile mountain ecosystems.
FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)
Q: What is the elevation of Shayaz Zom?
A: The most cited elevation is 6,026 meters (19,770 ft). publications.americanalpineclub.org+3peakbagger.com+3Wikipedia+3
Q: Has Shayaz ever been climbed?
A: There is no clear, widely accepted record of a first ascent of the highest summit. Some past expeditions climbed subpeaks. publications.americanalpineclub.org+2peakbagger.com+2
Q: Where is Shayaz located?
A: In northern Pakistan, in the region where the Hindu Raj and Hindu Kush ranges overlap, within Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province.
Q: What makes Shayaz different from other peaks in the area?
A: Its less-developed climbing history, ambiguity about the true summit, remoteness, and its position in the frontier Hindu Raj / Hindu Kush regions set it apart.
Q: What is the difficulty level for expeditions?
A: High. The terrain is challenging (rock, ice, snow), logistical difficulties exist, route-finding is complex, and weather and altitude risks are significant.
Q: When is the best time to climb it?
A: Summer to early fall offers the best chance for safer conditions and manageable snow/ice.
Q: What permissions are needed?
A: Given its remote and possibly border-zone location, expeditions will need to secure local and national permits, possibly coordinate with military or border security agencies.
Q: What gear is essential?
A: High-altitude mountaineering gear: ropes, ice tools, crampons, tents, high-quality clothing, navigation and communication tools (GPS, radios), emergency and medical kit.
Included
01:- Airport pick and drop
02:- Accommodation bed & B.fast, twin bedroom in Islamabad and other cities standard air-condition rooms.
03:- Flight Ticket or transportation from Islamabad/ Skardu/ Gilgit/chitral or from these cities to Islamabad
04:- Skardu/Gilgit/Hunza Hotel (bed & breakfast)
05:- Two nights in Chilas/ Besham hotel (bed & breakfast) incase of flight cancellation.
06:- Jeeps Skardu/Askoli/ Hushe/ Skardu/shimshal/Chitral/Kalash or vice virsa.
07:- Wages, insurance, food equipment of cook
08:- Wages, insurance, food equipment of Assistant cook,
09:- Wages, insurance, food of Porter Sirdar
10:- Porter Payment, Low altitude porters.
11:- Baggage,75 kg (going time) and 50 kgs (on return) for expedition 45 days or more and 25 kg for trekking group & trekking peak
12:- Full board camp food during trek & at base camp.
13:- Mess tent, Kitchen tent, store tent, table , chairs and kitchen equipment
14:- Reconfirmation of international flight tickets.
15:- Camping fees, road taxes & bridge crossing of expedition members & Porters.
16:- Porters Equipments.
17:- Assistance in obtaining climbing permit and other documentations
18:- Briefing and debriefing in the Ministry of tourism
19:- CKNP fee: US $ 150/per member
20:- 1000 US$ guarantee pollution fee.
21:- 200 US$ environmental protection fund.
22:- Fuel, Tarpaulin, and Stove for porters.
23:- Kerosene Oil for porter and Members
24:- Toilet tent and shower tent
25:- Members will have individual D-4 in Base camp tents, and mattress for expeditions more than one month
26:- LO insurance or guide transport and hotel/ equipment and TA/DA.
27:- Royalty fee and additional member fee
Not Included
1:- Sleeping bags, rucksacks and personal clothing.
02:- Medication, ground evacuation and helicopter rescue (US$15,000) of any kind.
03:- Room services, laundry charges, beverages and items of personal nature. Phone /communication
04:- Climbing food beyond base camp, equipment, high altitude Porters wages bills.
05:- Insurance or liability of any members.
06:- Tip to staff
07:- Custom clearing and forwarding agent’s charge.
08:- Food & drinks during stay in hotel (City)
09:- Transport to other cities or places out of itinerary
10:- Custom clearing and forwarding agent’s charge.
11:- Extra baggage charges during international or domestic flight
12:- Insurance or liability of any members.
Please contact for cost and other latest updates. thanks
TERMS & CONDITION:Chogholingsa Trek &Tours promulgates its terms and conditions for any kind of trip, trekking, mountaineering, hiking, rafting, wild safaris and other services being operated so far by the company. The terms and conditions set forth will bring forward its limitations before any interested visitor advances for the programs alluded. What should our clients do for reservation of any kind of services provided by the company? 1: REFUND: No refund will be made for 50% deposit amount in case of cancellation of trip for any other else reason. Having paid full amount of any trip, you’re entitled to incur refund in case if you want to cancel your trip. Still, cancellation charge is invoiced to you. Written notification of your cancellation should be made to cancel any trip. Nevertheless, you’re imposed cancellation charge as advised below: – 2: SUPPLEMENT CHARGE: On our holidays tour / trek packages, rooms or tents are provided in twin sharing basis. Thus, single room supplement charge will be imposed to client who does not have another tour participant to share room / tent with. 3: INCOMPLETE TOUR: No refund will be made to clients who drop out from the journey regardless of whatever portions remain unused in the itinerary. 4: CLIENTS’ RESPONSIBLE: A tour / trek guide who represents Chogholingsa trek & Tours deserves all authority during your tours. If you commit any unlawful act, you are compelled to leave the tour. No refund will be made in such case. 5: IMPACT ON YOUR JOURNEY: We put our every effort to ensure comfortable traveling of our guest. but it is must to understand that what you might be accustomed to in the western affluent countries, the Asian countries can’t afford such facilities. Weather is another factor that directly impact on your journey. Hence, patience in mind, enthusiasm and proper preparation before head is must to venture into journey. 6: TRAVEL INSURANCE: You must purchase comprehensive travel insurance package against medical, natural calamity, helicopter evacuation, personal accident, trip cancellation etc. This is suggested to all our esteemed clients. 7: TOUR AMENDMENT: 8: PAPERS AND DOCUMENTS: All necessary documents should be presented in sequence for example to issue visa, necessary permits etc. We’re not accountable in case of any trip formality not completed in time before the trip departs on the absent of essential papers and documents. 9: RISK AND RESPONSIBILITY: Your safety and enjoyment is our prime concern. We therefore carry out our responsibility honestly & sincerely to ensure your holiday trouble–free as well as you have desired. Nevertheless, unless stated otherwise, trip may be change under uncertain and inherent circumstances such as land-slides, road blockage, flood, snow political unrest, cancellation of flight, delay arrival, sickness or accidents etc. Any extra cost incurring there is your personal responsibility and should be borne on the spot. 10: FLIGHT DELAY / CANCELLATION: There is virtually possibility of flight delay or postponement for notorious weather in Karakoram & Himalayan Mountain regions of Pakistan which could be happened, especially during off season, you’re highly advised to reserve extra days to prepare with some delays and avoid frustrating consequence. In case of flight cancellation pre-tour/post-tour, you need to meet your accommodation and food costs yourself. Chogholingsa trek & Tours puts every effort to ensure your comfortable traveling, but it is must to understand that what you might be accustomed to in the other affluent countries, the Asian countries can’t afford such facilities. Weather is another factor that directly impacts your journey. Hence, patience in mind, enthusiasm and proper preparation before beginning is must to venture into journey. |
→01 RESERVATIONS / PAYMENTS: A non-refundable deposit of $300 or 15% of the tour is required in order to make a reservation with the company. Total balance is due 3 weeks prior to departure. When price once fixed then any extra expenses will not be charged to the client |
Account Details |
Bank Name: | Habib Bank Pvt. (LTD) |
Account Title: | Chogholingsa |
IBAN NO: | PK73 HABB 0004767901352403 |
swift code | HABBPKKA Or HABBPKKA476 |
Branch Code | 0476 |
Branch name: | Main Bazar Branch Skardu |