Koz Sar Expedition
Detailed Description
The Koz Sar Expedition offers an extraordinary adventure into the heart of Gilgit Baltistan’s untouched wilderness. Nestled in the remote Ishkoman Valley, this expedition provides trekkers with an opportunity to witness some of the most stunning landscapes in the region, including towering mountain peaks, expansive glaciers, lush valleys, and pristine rivers. The journey takes you through rugged terrains, traditional villages, and breathtaking vistas, making it a perfect trek for experienced adventurers and nature lovers alike.
Starting from the vibrant town of Gilgit, the expedition heads towards Ishkoman Valley, renowned for its untouched natural beauty and unique cultural heritage. As you trek deeper, you will encounter the majestic Koz Sar glacier, which is a highlight of this expedition. The area is sparsely populated, offering an authentic experience of remote mountain life, with opportunities to observe local customs and traditions. The expedition not only challenges your physical endurance but also enriches your understanding of the region’s ecological and cultural significance.
Koz Sar, First Ascent. Ichiro Yamagata led an eight-member team from the Sendai Ichiko Alpine Club of Japan that made the first ascent of Koz Sar Peak (6677m) via a small ridge in the south face. From 5000 to 5900 meters, the climb offered a crumbly rock slab with an average angle of 70 degrees. In the last 300 meters of the route we found good rock on a few vertical sections that we were able to overcome by free climbing. But we couldn’t use rock shoes due to bad conditions. Instead, we climbed the steep rock gully and slab using ice axes and crampons. Other expedition members were Takashi Ota, Manami Takahashi, Toru Nagasawa, Kazuhide Watanabe, Katsuyuki Kuriyagawa, Yasufumi Saito and Kotaro Takami.
We left Islamabad on July 13, arriving at Gilgit the same day at 11 p.m. On the 17th, we left Giligit by jeep and reached Bad Swat. The next day, we started trekking from Bad Swat to Mahtran Dan. Base Camp (3800m) was established at the foot of south ridge on July 20, Camp I (4500m) at the upper end of right-hand side of the moraine of the west glacier on July 24, Camp II (5000m) just below the snow plateau at the bottom of the south face on August 4, Camp III (5600m) on the small ridge located on the south face on August 10 and Camp IV (5900m) on the southwest ridge on August 14. We used a total of 1400 meters of fixed rope from 5200 to 6200 meters. Nine hundred meters of 9- and 10mm caving rope was fixed from 5200 meters (just above the bottom of the face) to 5850 meters (the crest of the southwest ridge). It took five days to fix this part of the route. Two hundred meters of 9mm caving rope and 300 meters of 9mm climbing rope were used for fixing the route from Camp IV to 6200 meters. It took only one day to fix this part. Takashi Ota and Katsuyuki Kuriyagawa reached the summit from CIV on August 17. For the anchors, we used approximately 100 pitons, ten bolts, ten ice screws, five snow stakes and one set of nuts. The team left BC and descended to Mahtran Dan on August 21.
Sample Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Gilgit
- Arrival at Gilgit Airport or bus station
- Briefing and acclimatization
- Stay overnight in Gilgit
Day 2: Gilgit to Ishkoman Valley
- Drive from Gilgit to Ishkoman Valley (approx. 6-7 hours)
- Scenic journey through mountain roads
- Explore local villages and meet local residents
- Overnight stay in a guesthouse or campsite
Day 3: Ishkoman Valley to Base Camp
- Trek from the valley to the designated base camp near Koz Sar Glacier
- Acclimatization and exploration of surrounding areas
- Prepare gear and provisions for the upcoming trek
- Overnight at the base camp
Day 04-30: Trek to Koz Sar Glacier
- Gradual trek towards the glacier, passing through rugged terrain and snowfields
- Explore the glacier and surrounding peaks
- Possible side hikes for panoramic views
- Return to base camp each evening
Day 31: Return to Ishkoman Valley
- Trek back to the valley
- Rest and relax after challenging days of trekking
- Cultural interactions with local villagers
Day 32: Ishkoman Valley to Gilgit
- Drive back to Gilgit
- Rest day or sightseeing in Gilgit
- Optional visit to local markets and cultural sites
Day 33: Departure
- Transfer to Gilgit Airport or bus station for onward travel
Additional Notes
- The itinerary can vary based on weather conditions, trekker experience, and logistical considerations.
- Proper acclimatization days are integrated to prevent altitude sickness.
- Trekking gear, camping equipment, and provisions are arranged prior to the expedition.
- This trek is best suited for experienced trekkers comfortable with high-altitude hiking and challenging terrains.
Highlights
- Majestic Koz Sar Glacier:Â Witness the sprawling icy expanse surrounded by towering peaks.
- Remote Mountain Villages:Â Experience authentic local culture in traditional settlements.
- Spectacular Mountain Views:Â Panoramic vistas of the Hindukush and Karakoram ranges.
- Diverse Landscapes:Â From lush green valleys to rugged mountain terrains and icy glaciers.
- Wildlife and Flora:Â Spot unique flora and fauna native to the region.
- Adventure and Trekking:Â Challenging trails suitable for experienced trekkers seeking adrenaline and adventure.
- Cultural Insights:Â Interact with local communities and learn about their traditions and way of life.
TERMS & CONDITION:Chogholingsa Trek &Tours promulgates its terms and conditions for any kind of trip, trekking, mountaineering, hiking, rafting, wild safaris and other services being operated so far by the company. The terms and conditions set forth will bring forward its limitations before any interested visitor advances for the programs alluded. What should our clients do for reservation of any kind of services provided by the company? 40% of payment in advance should be made up 1 month earlier or as soon as the trip is confirmed, since it is a proof that you are sure to attempt the trip. It should be done as alluded so that the company can manage all the necessary documents, permissions and required field staffs. The full settlement of the payment should be cleared before the client proceeds for the trip or any kind of service at the arrival in Pakistan. The advance payment is not refundable in case of overturning the trip in any condition on behalf of the client. The advance payment is only refundable if the holding company shows any technical impediments regarding the trip. No refund is made for 40% deposit amount in case of delay arrival, no show or cancellation of trip for any other else reason. For any consideration regarding the terms alluded, a bilateral negotiation can be attempted between the hosting company and the client The advance payment can be directly deposited to our bank account through any bank in the world.  1: REFUND: No refund will be made for 50% deposit amount in case of cancellation of trip for any other else reason. Having paid full amount of any trip, you’re entitled to incur refund in case if you want to cancel your trip. Still, cancellation charge is invoiced to you. Written notification of your cancellation should be made to cancel any trip. Nevertheless, you’re imposed cancellation charge as advised below: – 2: SUPPLEMENT CHARGE: On our holidays tour / trek packages, rooms or tents are provided in twin sharing basis. Thus, single room supplement charge will be imposed to client who does not have another tour participant to share room / tent with. 3: INCOMPLETE TOUR: No refund will be made to clients who drop out from the journey regardless of whatever portions remain unused in the itinerary. 4: CLIENTS’ RESPONSIBLE: A tour / trek guide who represents Chogholingsa trek & Tours deserves all authority during your tours. If you commit any unlawful act, you are compelled to leave the tour. No refund will be made in such case. 5: IMPACT ON YOUR JOURNEY: We put our every effort to ensure comfortable traveling of yours,but it is must to understand that what you might be accustomed to in the western affluent countries, the Asian countries can’t afford such facilities. Weather is another factor that directly impact on your journey. Hence, patience in mind, enthusiasm and proper preparation before head is must to venture into journey. 6:  TRAVEL INSURANCE: You must purchase comprehensive travel insurance package against medical, natural calamity, helicopter evacuation, personal accident, trip cancellation etc. This is suggested to all our esteemed clients. 7: TOUR AMENDMENT: 8: PAPERS AND DOCUMENTS: All necessary documents should be presented in sequence for example to issue visa, necessary permits etc. We’re not accountable in case of any trip formality not completed in time before the trip departs on the absent of essential papers and documents. 9:  RISK AND RESPONSIBILITY: Your safety and enjoyment is our prime concern. We therefore carry out our responsibility honestly & sincerely to ensure your holiday trouble–free as well as you have desired. Nevertheless, unless stated otherwise, trip may be change under uncertain and inherent circumstances such as land-slides, road blockage, flood, snow political unrest, cancellation of flight, delay arrival, sickness or accidents etc. Any extra cost incurring there is your personal responsibility and should be borne on the spot. 10: FLIGHT DELAY / CANCELLATION: There is virtually possibility of flight delay or postponement for notorious weather in Karakoram & Himalayan Mountain regions of Pakistan which could be happened, especially during off season, you’re highly advised to reserve extra days to prepare with some delays and avoid frustrating consequence. In case of flight cancellation pre-tour/post-tour, you need to meet your accommodation and food costs yourself. Chogholingsa trek & Tours puts every effort to ensure your comfortable traveling, but it is must to understand that what you might be accustomed to in the other affluent countries, the Asian countries can’t afford such facilities. Weather is another factor that directly impacts your journey. Hence, patience in mind, enthusiasm and proper preparation before beginning is must to venture into journey. |
→01 RESERVATIONS / PAYMENTS: A non-refundable deposit of $300 or 15% of the tour is required in order to make a reservation with the company. Total balance is due 3 weeks prior to departure. When price once fixed then any extra expenses will not be charged to the client |
Account Details |
Bank Name: | Habib Bank Pvt.LTD. |
Account Title: | Chogholingsa |
IBAN NO: | PK73 HABB 0004767901352403 |
swift code | HABBPKKA Or HABBPKKA476 |
Branch Code | 0476 |
Branch name: | Main Bazar Branch Skardu |
Inclusive
S# | DETAILS |
01 | Airport pick and drop |
02 | Accommodation bed & B.fast, twin bedroom in Islamabad and other cities standard air-condition rooms. |
03 | Flight Ticket or transportation from Islamabad/ Skardu/ Gilgit/chitral or from these cities to Islamabad |
04 | Skardu/Gilgit/Hunza Hotel (bed & breakfast) |
05 | Two nights in Chilas/ Besham hotel (bed & breakfast) incase of flight cancellation. |
06 | Jeeps Skardu/Askoli/ Hushe/ Skardu/shimshal/Chitral/Kalash or vice virsa. |
07 | Wages, insurance, food equipment of cook |
08 | Wages, insurance, food equipment of Assistant cook, |
09 | Wages, insurance, food of Porter Sirdar |
10 | Porter Payment, Low altitude porters. |
11 | Baggage,75 kg (going time) and 50 kgs (on return) for expedition 45 days or more and 25 kg for trekking group & trekking peak   |
12 | Full board camp food during trek & at base camp. |
13 | Mess tent, Kitchen tent, store tent, table , chairs and kitchen equipment |
14 | Reconfirmation of international flight tickets. |
15 | Camping fees, road taxes & bridge crossing of expedition members & Porters. |
16 | Porters Equipments. |
17 | Assistance in obtaining climbing permit and other documentations |
18 | Briefing and debriefing in the Ministry of tourism |
19 | CKNP fee: US $ 150/per member |
20 | 1000 US$ guarantee pollution fee. |
21 | 200 US$ environmental protection fund. |
22 | Fuel, Tarpaulin, and Stove for porters. |
23 | Kerosene Oil for porter and Members |
24 | Toilet tent and shower tent |
25 | Members will have individual D-4Â in Base camp tents, and mattress for expeditions more than one month |
26 | LO insurance or guide transport and hotel/ equipment and TA/DA. |
27 | Royalty fee and additional member fee |
Exclusive
S.# | DETAILS |
01 | Sleeping bags, rucksacks and personal clothing. |
02 | Medication, ground evacuation and helicopter rescue (US$15,000) of any kind. |
03 | Room services, laundry charges, beverages and items of personal nature. Phone /communication |
04 | Climbing food beyond base camp, equipment, high altitude Porters wages bills. |
05 | Insurance or liability of any members. |
06 | Tip to staff |
07 | Custom clearing and forwarding agent’s charge. |
08 | Food & drinks during stay in hotel (City) |
09 | Transport to other cities or places out of itinerary |
10 | Custom clearing and forwarding agent’s charge. |
11 | Extra baggage charges during international or domestic flight |
12 | Insurance or liability of any members. |