Shipton Spire Expedition (5,852m) – Karakoram, Pakistan
Overview
Shipton Spire (5,852 meters / 19,199 feet) is one of the most dramatic and iconic granite towers in the Karakoram range of Pakistan. Located in the heart of the Trango Group, between the Baltoro Glacier and the Trango Glacier, Shipton Spire is a dream objective for elite alpinists and big-wall climbers seeking technical, committing routes in one of the world’s wildest mountain environments.
First climbed in 1979 by a British team led by Doug Scott, Shipton Spire remains a true test of high-altitude rock climbing, offering steep granite faces, long technical pitches, and breathtaking exposure. The expedition combines remote trekking, alpine camping, and world-class climbing in one of the most visually stunning mountain regions on Earth.
Location & Geography
→ Mountain Range: Karakoram
→ Region: Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
→ Nearby Peaks: Trango Towers, Great Trango Tower, Nameless Tower, Uli Biaho Tower
→ Access Glacier: Baltoro Glacier
Shipton Spire rises sharply from the Trango Glacier, forming part of the legendary granite cathedral of the Karakoram. The approach alone is an expedition highlight, passing through iconic trekking routes such as Askole, Concordia, and the Baltoro Glacier.
Climbing Routes & Difficulty
Shipton Spire is a highly technical climb, suitable only for experienced climbers with strong alpine and big-wall backgrounds.
Notable Routes:
→ North-East Ridge (Original Route): Highly technical mixed climbing with sustained rock pitches.
→ North Face: Extremely steep granite, demanding advanced aid and free climbing skills.
→ West Face: Rarely attempted, involving long, complex pitches and severe exposure.
Technical Grade:
→ Overall Difficulty: Extremely difficult (ED)
→ Rock Climbing: Up to 5.11 / A3
→ Altitude: 5,852m
→ Style: Alpine / Big Wall / Expedition
This peak is not suitable for beginners or intermediate climbers. Prior experience on big alpine walls such as Trango Towers, Yosemite big walls, or Patagonian spires is highly recommended.
Best Season to Climb Shipton Spire
The optimal climbing season is:
→ June to August
During these months, weather conditions are relatively stable, temperatures are manageable, and access through the Baltoro Glacier is safest. However, climbers should still be prepared for storms, snowfall, and sudden weather changes.
Required Experience & Skills
Participants must have:
→ Extensive experience in multi-pitch rock climbing
→ Proven big-wall climbing skills
→ Strong knowledge of anchor systems, hauling, and aid techniques
→ Previous high-altitude alpine climbing experience
→ Ability to operate independently in remote environments
Logistics & Support
A professionally organized expedition typically includes:
→ All climbing permits and government documentation
→ Domestic flights or road transport
→ Hotel accommodations in Islamabad and Skardu
→ Full trekking support (porters, cooks, base camp staff)
→ Group equipment: tents, ropes, cooking gear
→ Emergency evacuation coordination
→ Satellite communication support
Why Climb Shipton Spire?
→ One of the most aesthetic granite spires in the world
→ Legendary status among elite alpinists
→ Remote, wild, and untouched climbing environment
→ Part of the iconic Trango Group
→ A true test of skill, endurance, and commitment
Shipton Spire is not just a climb — it is a statement ascent for serious climbers aiming to push their limits on one of the world’s most demanding peaks.
Days 1–4: Arrival & Preparations
Arrival in Islamabad
Briefings, gear check, and permit processing
Domestic flight or drive to Skardu
Days 5–10: Trek to Base Camp
Drive to Askole
Trek via Jhola, Paiju, Khoburtse, Urdukas
Reach Trango Glacier Base Camp
Days 11–18: Acclimatization & Load Carries
Establish advanced base camp (ABC)
Fix lines, carry loads, and acclimatize on nearby routes
Days 19–30: Summit Push
Establish high camps on the route
Technical climbing on steep granite faces
Summit attempt and descent
Days 31–40: Return Trek & Departure
Trek back to Askole
Return to Skardu and Islamabad
International departure
TERMS & CONDITION:
Chogholingsa Trek &Tours promulgates its terms and conditions for any kind of trip, trekking, mountaineering, hiking, rafting, wild safaris and other services being operated so far by the company. The terms and conditions set forth will bring forward its limitations before any interested visitor advances for the programs alluded.
What should our clients do for reservation of any kind of services provided by the company?
40% of payment in advance should be made up 1 month earlier or as soon as the trip is confirmed, since it is a proof that you are sure to attempt the trip. It should be done as alluded so that the company can manage all the necessary documents, permissions and required field staffs.
The full settlement of the payment should be cleared before the client proceeds for the trip or any kind of service at the arrival in Pakistan.
The advance payment is not refundable in case of overturning the trip in any condition on behalf of the client.
The advance payment is only refundable if the holding company shows any technical impediments regarding the trip.
No refund is made for 40% deposit amount in case of delay arrival, no show or cancellation of trip for any other else reason.
For any consideration regarding the terms alluded, a bilateral negotiation can be attempted between the hosting company and the client
The advance payment can be directly deposited to our bank account through any bank in the world.
1: REFUND:
No refund will be made for 50% deposit amount in case of cancellation of trip for any other else reason. Having paid full amount of any trip, you’re entitled to incur refund in case if you want to cancel your trip. Still, cancellation charge is invoiced to you. Written notification of your cancellation should be made to cancel any trip. Nevertheless, you’re imposed cancellation charge as advised below: –
2: SUPPLEMENT CHARGE:
On our holidays tour / trek packages, rooms or tents are provided in twin sharing basis. Thus, single room supplement charge will be imposed to client who does not have another tour participant to share room / tent with.
3: INCOMPLETE TOUR:
No refund will be made to clients who drop out from the journey regardless of whatever portions remain unused in the itinerary.
4: CLIENTS’ RESPONSIBLE:
A tour / trek guide who represents Chogholingsa trek & Tours deserves all authority during your tours. If you commit any unlawful act, you are compelled to leave the tour. No refund will be made in such case.
5: IMPACT ON YOUR JOURNEY:
We put our every effort to ensure comfortable traveling of yours,but it is must to understand that what you might be accustomed to in the western affluent countries, the Asian countries can’t afford such facilities. Weather is another factor that directly impact on your journey. Hence, patience in mind, enthusiasm and proper preparation before head is must to venture into journey.
6: TRAVEL INSURANCE:
You must purchase comprehensive travel insurance package against medical, natural calamity, helicopter evacuation, personal accident, trip cancellation etc. This is suggested to all our esteemed clients.
7: TOUR AMENDMENT:
To make alterations of any trek / tour itinerary, prior notice is requested. You’re advised to stay in touch with us thus. But occasionally, you may be obliged to do so en route under certain circumstance for instance bad weather etc.
8: PAPERS AND DOCUMENTS:
All necessary documents should be presented in sequence for example to issue visa, necessary permits etc. We’re not accountable in case of any trip formality not completed in time before the trip departs on the absent of essential papers and documents.
9: RISK AND RESPONSIBILITY:
Your safety and enjoyment is our prime concern. We therefore carry out our responsibility honestly & sincerely to ensure your holiday trouble–free as well as you have desired. Nevertheless, unless stated otherwise, trip may be change under uncertain and inherent circumstances such as land-slides, road blockage, flood, snow political unrest, cancellation of flight, delay arrival, sickness or accidents etc. Any extra cost incurring there is your personal responsibility and should be borne on the spot.
10: FLIGHT DELAY / CANCELLATION:
There is virtually possibility of flight delay or postponement for notorious weather in Karakoram & Himalayan Mountain regions of Pakistan which could be happened, especially during off season, you’re highly advised to reserve extra days to prepare with some delays and avoid frustrating consequence. In case of flight cancellation pre-tour/post-tour, you need to meet your accommodation and food costs yourself.
Chogholingsa Trek & Tours puts every effort to ensure your comfortable traveling, but it is must to understand that what you might be accustomed to in the other affluent countries, the Asian countries can’t afford such facilities. Weather is another factor that directly impacts your journey. Hence, patience in mind, enthusiasm and proper preparation before beginning is must to venture into journey.
→01 RESERVATIONS / PAYMENTS:
A non-refundable deposit of $300 or 15% of the tour is required in order to make a reservation with the company. Total balance is due 3 weeks prior to departure. When price once fixed then any extra expenses will not be charged to the client
→02 MODE OF PAYMENT: Bank Transfer:
Account Details
Bank Name: →Habib Bank Pvt.LTD.
Account Title: →Chogholingsa
IBAN NO: →PK73 HABB 0004767901352403
swift code → HABBPKKA Or HABBPKKA476
Branch Code →0476
Branch name: →Main Bazar Branch Skardu
OUR SERVICES
Included
01:- Airport pick and drop
02:- Accommodation bed & B.fast, twin bedroom in Islamabad and other cities standard air-condition rooms.
03:- Flight Ticket or transportation from Islamabad/ Skardu/ Gilgit/chitral or from these cities to Islamabad
04:- Skardu/Gilgit/Hunza Hotel (bed & breakfast)
05:- Two nights in Chilas/ Besham hotel (bed & breakfast) incase of flight cancellation.
06:- Jeeps Skardu/Askoli/ Hushe/ Skardu/shimshal/Chitral/Kalash or vice virsa.
07:- Wages, insurance, food equipment of cook
08:- Wages, insurance, food equipment of Assistant cook,
09:- Wages, insurance, food of Porter Sirdar
10:- Porter Payment, Low altitude porters.
11:- Baggage,75 kg (going time) and 50 kgs (on return) for expedition 45 days or more and 25 kg for trekking group & trekking peak
12:- Full board camp food during trek & at base camp.
13:- Mess tent, Kitchen tent, store tent, table , chairs and kitchen equipment
14:- Reconfirmation of international flight tickets.
15:- Camping fees, road taxes & bridge crossing of expedition members & Porters.
16:- Porters Equipments.
17:- Assistance in obtaining climbing permit and other documentations
18:- Briefing and debriefing in the Ministry of tourism
19:- CKNP fee: US $ 150/per member
20:- 1000 US$ guarantee pollution fee.
21:- 200 US$ environmental protection fund.
22:- Fuel, Tarpaulin, and Stove for porters.
23:- Kerosene Oil for porter and Members
24:- Toilet tent and shower tent
25:- Members will have individual D-4 in Base camp tents, and mattress for expeditions more than one month
26:- LO insurance or guide transport and hotel/ equipment and TA/DA.
27:- Royalty fee and additional member fee
Not Included
1:- Sleeping bags, rucksacks and personal clothing.
02:- Medication, ground evacuation and helicopter rescue (US$15,000) of any kind.
03:- Room services, laundry charges, beverages and items of personal nature. Phone /communication
04:- Climbing food beyond base camp, equipment, high altitude Porters wages bills.
05:- Insurance or liability of any members.
06:- Tip to staff
07:- Custom clearing and forwarding agent’s charge.
08:- Food & drinks during stay in hotel (City)
09:- Transport to other cities or places out of itinerary
10:- Custom clearing and forwarding agent’s charge.
11:- Extra baggage charges during international or domestic flight
12:- Insurance or liability of any members.
FAQs
1. How high is Shipton Spire?
Shipton Spire stands at approximately 5,852 meters (19,199 feet).
2. Is Shipton Spire suitable for beginners?
No. It is an extremely technical climb suitable only for highly experienced alpinists and big-wall climbers.
3. What is the best time to climb Shipton Spire?
The best season is from June to August, when weather conditions are relatively stable.
4. How long does the expedition take?
A typical expedition lasts 35 to 45 days, depending on weather and climbing progress.
5. Do I need a permit to climb Shipton Spire?
Yes. A climbing permit from the Government of Pakistan is mandatory, and it is usually arranged by the expedition operator.
